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MT 29 December 2013

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34 maltatoday, TRAVEL SUNDAY, 29 DECEMBER 2013 More than just a transit city Frankfurt Why go? Over 50 million people pass through Frankfurt airport, Europe's second busiest airport, every year, but only a fraction of these venture out into the city itself. It is too bad for those who don't, as they are really missing out. Thoroughly modern, aside from the quaint, restored Old Town, this commercial centre is awash with towering high rises and contemporary architecture. But modernism breeds creativity and as a result you'll find a flourishing artistic scene, including interactive galleries and fusion restaurants. Festive charm sweeps the city in December; an annual Christmas market has been held here since 1393, and you can enjoy advent concerts, view the nativity scene, or take a ride on the historic steam train. What to do? Bombings in 1944 devastated most of Frankfurt's Old Town, but a restored area around Römberg, the city's oldest central square, is full of 14th and 15th century architectural gems, including gabled houses. To the east, spot the Gothic Frankfurt Cathedral – the tower survived the bombings, but the interior burned; rebuilt in the 1950s, it now houses a museum for religious objects. Nearby, St Paul's Church served as the National Assembly during the German Revolutions of 1848. A stretch along the southern bank of the Main River has been nicknamed Museum Embankment due to its hub of cultural institutions – there are 12 to choose from. The Städel (www.stadelmuseum. de) is packed with choice old masters; the Duetsches Filmmuseum (www. deutsches-filmmuseum.de) and the Museum für Moderne Kunst (www. mmk-frankfurt.de) are both fun and interactive. Before the Second World War, Frankfurt had a population of 35,000 Jews – visit the Jüdisches Museum (www.juedischesmuseum.de) for a moving account of the population's appalling demise. Book a show at the Alte Oper (www. alteoper.de) – throughout the season there are various concerts, including Handel's Messiah. For sweeping views of the city head to the bar in Commerzbank Tower, the tallest office block in Europe or to Main Tower, where the viewing area is 200m above the city. Fans of the poet Goethe should visit Goethe Haus (www.goethehausfrankfurt.de), his birthplace, now a museum. The Rheingau, one of Germany's most famous wine regions, is less than an hour away – spend an afternoon at Römberg, the city's oldest central square, is full of 14th and 15th century architectural gems, including gabled houses a winery tasting local Riesling. Where to stay? All white, from the exterior to the spotless rooms, The Pure (www.thepure.de) is a design led hotel a few blocks from the train station; clumsy drinkers would be advised to stick to white wine at the bar – you'll understand when you see it. Villa Kennedy (www.villakennedy. com) is a luxury hotel built around an early 20th century mansion. South of the Main, it is a world away from the city's bustle. Where to eat and drink? Cosmopolitan Frankfurt boasts an international food scene, showcasing influences from around the world. The Rheingau, one of Germany's most famous wine regions, is less than an hour away from Frankfurt – spend an afternoon at a winery tasting local Riesling With floor-to-ceiling windows looking out to the Main River, Frankfuter Botschaft (www.frankfurter-botschaft.de) serves imaginative fusion cuisine – try saddle of venison with spiced pumpkin puree and banana bread, or beef fillet with goose liver, parsnip soup, truffles and celery. Heimat (www.heimat-frankfurt. com) is a cosy wine-focused restaurant where you can sample GermanFrench dishes that change with the seasons; there is no English menu but the friendly staff will guide you. Atmospheric Zarges (www.zargesfrankfurt.com) serves modern European dishes supplemented with a great German wine list; there's also a small confiserie in which to appease your sweet tooth. Apfelwein, or cider, is Hesse's state drink, so no visit to Frankfurt is complete without a sampling. Head to Apfelwein Fohl (www.apfelwein-fohl. de) for the traditional experience, where you might also munch on a handkase, a local sour milk cheese. At the Christmas market, which takes place in Romerberg, Paulslatz and Mainkai you can stock up on all sorts of delights – mulled wine, baked apples, sausages, roasted chestnuts and lebkuchen – a traditional German gingerbread baked at Christmas. How to get there? Frankfurt's Gothic Cathedral tower survived the bombings of World War II but the interior burned; rebuilt in the 1950s, it now houses a museum for religious objects The Städel Museum is packed withy choice old masters Lufthansa and Air Malta operate daily flights to Frankfurt Airport. Outbound flights booked for 8 January, returning 12 January were priced at €314 (Lufthansa) and €264 (Air Malta), including taxes, at the time of going to print.

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