Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/244624
38 maltatoday, TRAVEL SUNDAY, 19 JANUARY 2014 The megacity of Istanbul Why go? Spanning the two continents of Europe and Asia, home to a population of more than 14 million people, and with enough historical sites to keep any person busy for several lifetimes, Istanbul is as stunningly beautiful as it is unique. Bringing together elements from Byzantine, Greek, Roman, Ottoman and Turkish civilizations, Istanbul has evolved over centuries into a city of great cultural significance. Istanbul is a city of extreme contrasts. From the fabulously wealthy to the very poor; the traditionalist to the liberal; from glitzy shopping malls to backstreet markets, Istanbul encompasses the good, the bad and the very beautiful. What to do? The domed silhoutte of the 17th century Blue Mosque (www.bluemosque.org) is one of a handful in the world to boast six minarets. Though not noticeably blue, the walls are papered with fine İznik tiles, giving the mosque a blue tinge. The mosque houses the tomb of Sultan Ahmed I, the man who gave his name to both the mosque and the neighbourhood. The Istanbul Archaeology Museum houses the glorious sarcophagus of Alexander, which depicts scenes from the life of Alexander the Great in vivid 3D Get a bird's-eye view of the watery city from the balcony at the top of the Galata Tower in Beyoğlu, the modern part of old Istanbul that, in pre-Republican days, was home to the city's foreign residents. There are several magnificent steamy Ottoman bathhouses to choose from in the city. Try out the spectacular 16th century Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamam right in Sultanahmet Square and designed for Suleiman the Magnificent's scheming wife Roxelana, available to the public for the first time in 2011. Think acres of marble, the sound of running water echoing around stupendous domes, and a massage fit for a sultan. Walk to Istanbul's three-in-one Istanbul Archaeology Museum via the grounds of Topkapi Palace or through Gulhane Park. If time is tight, go straight to the large porticoed building housing the glorious sarcophagus of Alexander, which depicts scenes from the life of Alexander the Great in vivid 3D. Kids will love the model Trojan Horse in the children's section. Then pop into the lovely Tiled Pavilion, one of the city's oldest Ottoman structures, beautifully restored to show off its finest ceramics. Finally, catch a glimpse of a peace treaty from 1269 BC preserved in the part of the museum nearest to the gate. Where to eat? The whimsical presentation of the food at Meze by Lemon Tree (www. meze.com.tr) and their generous hand with the raki bottle make this restaurant worth a visit. Experience a northern Aegean tour de force featuring sautéed seasonal greens like nettles and dandelions. As the meal progresses towards a whole grilled fish, or a succulent loin of baby lamb you'll quickly realise that there is more to this place than just meze. The Black Sea area is Turkey's culinary misfit; it's not really about kebabs or mezes. If anything, the food seems to have been mysteriously transplanted from the American Deep South, with cornbread, collard greens and smoky bean stews. It's simple, filling, down-home food, and Hayvore, a little restaurant in the Galatasaray area, is a great – and affordable – spot to get acquainted with it. Try the chickpeas in a glowing red gravy, meaty, stuffed chard leaves, large hunks of cornbread or the Black Sea anchovies (hamsi) lightly fried. Open since 1967, Şahin Lokantasi is usually bursting at the seams during lunch, with an almost comical number of people stuffing themselves into the small, two-storey space. The menu changes daily, with about a dozen dishes on offer, a combination of meat or vegetable stews, pilafs, köfte (meatballs) and other classics of the Turkish (home) kitchen. The imam bayildi, made of a fried eggplant stuffed with onions, tomatoes and garlic, is among the finest renditions of this totemic dish. Şahin's superb sütlaç (rice pudding) is chock-a-block with grains of soft rice floating inside a thick, milky pudding. Like everything served in this restaurant, it hits the spot. Where to stay? Hotel Ibrahim Pasha (www.ibrahimpasha.com) named after Suleiman the Magnificent's grand vizier, who had a palace just around the corner, and is just steps away from the historic Hippodrome where chariot races were run in Byzantine times. Wooden floors paired with contemporary furnishings set the tone for rooms that are petite but perfectly equipped. The roof terrace offers a fantastic view of the Blue Mosque, and in winter a roaring fire welcomes guests to a book-lined lobby where a giant Roman capital props up the reception desk. Get a bird's eye view from the top of the Galata tower Get a massage at the majestic Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamam in the marbled 16th century building Though not officially blue the Blue Mosque is covered in blue tiles that give the 17th century building a blue tinge What the Pera Palace (www.perapalace.com) lacks in smallness it more than makes up for in historic significance. This magnificent building, round the corner from the stridently modern Marmara Pera, was specially commissioned to accommodate passengers who arrived in Istanbul on the Orient Express, and its guestlist is a rollcall of the great and good. Agatha Christie famously stayed here, as did Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, modern Turkey's founding father. The spruce new rooms are not the city's largest, nor is the view the best, but who cares when you can chink glasses in the atmospheric bar where the spy Mata Hari, and royal renegades Edward and Mrs Simpson, once hid away. Tucked-away down a quiet, cobbled street within a stone's throw of the city's landmark Galata Tower, the Sumo Cat (www.sumocathostel.com) has been converted from a 19th-century townhouse by the quartet of hip young Turks who run it. They'll happily point you in the direction of the best bars, clubs, galleries and restaurants in vibrant Galata and adjoining Beyoğlu. There are three dorm rooms and a couple of doubles – slightly on the small side but boldly decorated with murals and with air-conditioning. A simple buffet breakfast is available in the basement, or take it up to the cosy courtyard out front. How to get there? Air Malta offers direct flights to Istanbul, twice weekly on Monday and Thursday. Flights departing from Malta on 30 January and returning on 6 February were priced at €119.21 including taxes at the time of going to print.