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MT 27 July 2014

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32 RESTO OF THE WEEK maltatoday, SUNDAY, 27 JULY 2014 SITUATED in Xemxija heights and facing the sea, Sammy's is fairly easy to find. A landmark ever since I was a child, I never really got to venture inside. This summer, Sammy's steps up a notch having been taken over by Culi- nary Forward. Your dining experience is cou- pled with Culinary Forward's love for music. As you step over the threshold, you are immediately lulled into a state of relaxation by the jazz music coming from the vintage gramophone that occupies a place of honour at the entrance. The menu mixes various fresh, seasonal produce in unique and in- novative ways. What distinguishes Sammy's from the rest is their af- finity for local produce. Although some of the ingredients they use are imported, they make an effort to use the best of what's available on the island. Their menu is written out on two blackboards at the back of the restaurant, as dishes change often, depending on what is in season and available on the day. Focusing on local ingredients, their menu consists of a variety of dishes that are traditional though including an innovative twist. Take, for example, their decon- structed sausage roll. A sausage roll is not normally considered the sort of meal you would con- sider when dining at a restaurant, however Sammy's uses the com- ponents of this delicious snack to make a truly innovative starter. The confit of pork meat, perfect devilled eggs, local sweet onions, topped with puff pastry crusts is nothing like the sausage roll you eat out of a paper bag while sitting on a pavement after a long night of drinking! Their prawn cocktail is a cut above any prawn cocktail dish you've ever tasted. Having fallen out of fashion after the 80s, when cheap ingredients ruined this deli- cate dish, Culinary Forward's take includes marinated red prawns, caught in Maltese waters just hours before being plated on a heavy slab rather than the typical glass bowl used in the 80s. Pick- led cucumber adds an interesting kick to the delicate f lavour of the seafood, grilled romaine lettuce and roast prawn mayonnaise, with a sprinkle of smoked prawn salt, restore your faith in retro cuisine and make you realise why this dish became so popular in the first place. Every detail is important to Cu- linary Forward and not just the actual dishes that you order. For instance, the bread they serve is home made and filled with herbs – perfectly crunchy on the outside and warm and soft and buttery on the inside. Arthur, their sommelier, is never too busy to share some of his ex- tensive knowledge on the subject, which he imparts with a sparkle in his eye. You can really feel that food and wine is not just a job for Culinary Forwar; this sort of pas- sion cannot be faked! The little tavern that is Sammy's surprised me in the very tastiest of ways, so if you haven't given this little restaurant a chance this summer, then it's probably about time you did! WINE OF THE WEEK Sammy's by Culinary Forward Malta 24, Xemxija Hill, CFM01, St Paul's Bay Tel: 27441546 Facebook: sammysbycfm Rachel Zammit Cutajar takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt FOOD Sammy's steps it up a notch PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Valley Road, B'Kara Tel: 2144 4400 2013 Feudo Chardonnay - 'Principi di Butera' DOC Sicily Area: The districts of Butera and Riesi in the Province of Caltanissetta Grapes: 100% Chardonnay Vinification and ageing: The must from grapes picked during the first week in August began its fermentation in stainless steel at a controlled temperature of 20° C. (68° F.). It was then partly racked into medium toast oak 350 liter (92 gallon) tonneaux where it continued to ferment for about 20 days. Long maturation on its own lees was followed by a few months' bottle ageing. Colour: Straw-yellow with pale golden highlights. Bouquet: Broad, with hints of pineapple, mango and ripe fruit, underpinned by sweetish vanilla tones. Flavour: Dry yet well-balanced, with an elegant touch of toasted almonds offsetting the fruity notes. Good zesty acidity and velvety fruit. Food matches: Excellent as an aperitif, with fish-based dishes or with white meats. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, B'Kara T: 2144-4400

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