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MT 12 October 2014

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maltatoday, Sunday, 22 May 2011 33 Though no longer used as a currency, to the culinary world pepper is still just as valuable, being a vital ingredient to many cuisines everywhere. The world's most traded spice, peppercorns are native to India, though they are grown in many other tropical regions, with Viet- nam being the largest producer and exporter. The dried fruit of the flowering vine Piperaceae is available in many different varieties – black, white, green, orange and pink. Flavours and heat vary according to how ripe the peppercorn is when harvested, and the methods used for drying and preserving. The largest black peppercorn is the Tellicherry, considered to be the best because it's left on the vine longer for a more developed fla- vour. other black peppercorns are Sarawak, Malabar, and Vietnam- ese, but unless you're buying from a specialty spice store, the packaging usually doesn't specify the origin. Black pepper Black pepper is produced from the still-green unripe drupes of the pepper plant and are cooked briefly in hot water before they are dried. The heat ruptures the cell walls, speeding up the work of the brown- ing enzymes and forming a dark wrinkly shell after being dried. once the peppercorns are dried, pepper spirit and oil can be ex- tracted from the berries by crush- ing them. Pepper spirit is used in famous beverages like Coca-Cola and many medicinal and beauty products. Pepper oil is also used as a massage oil and in certain beauty treatments. Like most spices, black pepper tastes best when freshly ground. A quality peppermill allows you to control the size of the grind, from fine to coarse. For small quantities of freshly ground pepper a pepper mill is usually enough but if you need larger quantities a spice grind- er or coffee mill is a time saver. White pepper The darker skin of the pepper fruit is removed leaving the pun- gent seed. Red pepper berries are usually soaked in water where the outer skin softens and decomposes. They are then rubbed to remove any excess skin, leaving the white spicy seed. These peppercorns have a slightly hotter flavour and help keep light coloured dishes and sauces aestheti- cally appealing. These peppercorns go especially well in sauces, on light coloured meats such as fish, and even in mashed potatoes. White peppercorns have a unique aroma that is not only hot, but slightly musky. They are the preferred pep- per in much of the world. Green pepper green pepper, like black, is made from the unripe drupes and are treated to retain their green colour. Pickled peppercorns, also green, are unripe drupes preserved in brine or vinegar. Fresh, unpreserved green pepper drupes, largely unknown in the West, are used in some Asian cuisines, particularly Thai cuisines, and are piquant and fresh with a bright aroma. Red pepper orange pepper or red pepper usually consists of ripe red pepper drupes preserved in brine and vin- egar. Ripe red peppercorns can also be dried using the same colour-pre- serving techniques used to produce green pepper. Pink pepper These rare and sometimes hard to find peppercorns come from France's Reunion Island off the Madagascar coast in the Indian ocean. They have a fruity, slightly tart flavour, which goes especially well in fruit sauces, vinaigrette, and des- serts. Pink peppercorns have a rich pink colour that adds an interesting touch of colour to foods. These are not true "peppercorns", but a similar tasting berry from South America. Sichuan pepper The Sichuan peppercorn is widely grown and used in many Asian dishes and like the pink peppercorn is not related to the other peppercorns or chili pep- pers. It is a key component of Chinese five-spice powder and the taste is a bit pungent and ver y fragrant with a hint of citrus. It also doesn't possess the heat of other peppercorns or chili pep- pers. Preparation tips Pepper should be added to cooked dishes towards the end of cooking to prevent creating a bitter f lavour, which can occur when pepper is cooked too long. Cooking for more than t wo hours completely zaps the f lavour and aromas from the peppercorns. Pepper will have an amplified f lavour af ter food it is in has been frozen. Tr y adding pink peppercorns to dishes and sauces to add colour, or keep your light coloured dish- es and sauces light with white peppercorns. Freshly ground pepper goes surprisingly well on fresh fruit. This is especially true for pink peppercorns, they are a common ingredient in fruit sauces and as a garnish for fruit dishes. Tr y lightly toasting pepper- corns before use. ReciPe of the Week maltatoday, Sunday, 12 OctOber 2014 fine food of the Week The spice of life food Chocolate fondant with salted caramel ingredients For the salted caramel 15g dark muscovado sugar • 200ml whipping or double • cream 20g glucose • 60g sugar • Lemon juice, to taste • pinch salt • freshly ground black • pepper, to taste For the chocolate fondant 15g cocoa powder • 15g sugar • 80g good quality dark • chocolate, minimum 60% cocoa solids, roughly chopped 80g butter, plus extra for • greasing 2 eggs • 1 egg yolk • 45g icing sugar • 18g arrowroot • For the chocolate sauce • 90ml full-fat milk • 130g good quality dark • chocolate, minimum 80% cocoa solids, roughly chopped to serve Icing sugar, to dust • Ice-cream • Method For the salted caramel, place the dark muscovado sugar and cream in a saucepan. using thoroughly wet hands and spoon, add the glucose to the sugar and cream mixture and bring the mixture to the boil. (nb: Glucose sticks to dry hands and spoons.) Meanwhile, heat the caster sugar in another pan over a low heat, stirring continuously until golden-brown and caramelised. remove from the heat instantly. carefully, pour the hot cream and glucose mixture over the caramelised sugar (the mixture may splutter) and return the mixture to a simmer. continue to simmer until the caramel mixture has thickened and darkened and the temperature reaches 102°c. (nb: use a sugar thermometer to check the temperature of the caramel.) remove the pan from the heat and carefully stir in the lemon juice and salt. Season with freshly ground black pepper and stir gently once more. Set aside to cool slightly. Pour the caramel into small silicone moulds or ice cube trays. When the caramel has completely cooled, freeze it for at least two hours, or until set. (nb: you will not need all of the caramel for this recipe. the remaining caramel can be stored in the freezer for up to three months.) For the chocolate fondant, grease the insides of four ring moulds, 5cm/2in diameter and 6cm/2½in deep, with softened butter. In a bowl, mix together the cocoa powder and caster sugar until well combined. dust the inside of the ring moulds with the mixture, shaking off any excess. Place the prepared ring moulds onto a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper. Melt the chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water (do not allow the base of the bowl to touch the water). Meanwhile, place the eggs and egg yolk into a bowl and whisk together until pale and fluffy. Sift the icing sugar into the whisked eggs, whisking until well combined. next, sift in the arrowroot and whisk until the mixture is pale, thick, has doubled in volume and the beaters leave a trail on the surface of the mixture when lifted. (nb: this is called the ribbon stage.) Whisk the melted chocolate mixture into the egg mixture until well combined. using a ladle, fill each of the prepared ring moulds with the chocolate fondant mixture until they are three-quarters full. add one piece of frozen caramel to the centre of each ring mould and press down so that it is nestled halfway down the mould. Gently push the chocolate fondant mixture over the caramel to cover it completely. chill the chocolate fondants in the fridge for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours. When the chocolate fondants have chilled, preheat the oven to 200°c. transfer the chilled chocolate fondants to the oven and bake for five minutes, or until the tops have just formed a crust. remove the fondants from the oven and allow to cool. When the fondants have cooled, run a butter knife around the insides of each mould to loosen the fondants. carefully remove the moulds. chill the fondants in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. Meanwhile, for the chocolate sauce, heat the milk in a pan until just simmering. add the chocolate and whisk well until smooth and well combined, then remove from the heat. When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 180°c. bake the fondants for eight minutes, or until the cakes have risen. to serve, place a spoonful of the chocolate sauce into the centre of each of four serving plates, smoothing it out into an oblong. dust the chocolate fondants with icing sugar and place on top of the puddle of sauce, in the middle. Sprinkle the caramelised pistachios and almonds around the plate. Place one quenelle of pistachio ice cream next to the fondant. Serve immediately.

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