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MT 9 November 2014

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Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Valley Road, B'Kara Tel: 2144 4400 Bodegas Lan was established in 1972 and after a number of itinerant owners, they settled with an investment group, Mercapital, in 2002. Their winery is based in the town of Fuenmayor in Rioja Alta. Robert Parker, Jr., The Wine Advocate: "The 2005 Gran Reserva is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano: a selection of the best grapes from 20- to 25-year-old vines that is then aged in American and French oak for 24 months. It has an intense minty nose of blackberry, smoke and grilled meats that is well-defined, but surprisingly taut considering the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with a tarry, leathery entry. The tannins are fine and linear, the finish classic in style with a dash of white pepper and tar. This is a very well-made Gran Reserva drinking beautifully now, but certainly it has the substance to keep. Drink now-2022. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, B'Kara, T: 2144-4400 Gran Reserva Rioja 2005 (93pts) Bodegas LAN, Rioja - Spain 36 RESTO OF THE WEEK maltatoday, SUNDAY, 9 NOVEMBER 2014 SPINOLA has always been a bit chaotic. The junction between the nightlife in Paceville, the Sliema promenade, fast food and fine din- ing, it is a busy hub that hardly ever sleeps. Potential diners are torn be- tween the rows of restaurants and eateries, all vying for their attention and their custom. Spinola Terrace makes no such fuss. Set at the far end of the bay – close enough to watch the madness, removed enough not to have to listen to it – it sits above the water, keep- ing mostly to itself. It doesn't need a song-and-dance to draw diners. Its reputation speaks for itself. Sitting down on the famed terrace, you can see why. The view is unparal- leled and it is perfectly complement- ed by the newly redesigned interior. Muted greys and subtle, endearing accents do not distract from the food, the real star of the show, but it certainly makes for comfortable dining. Another feather in their hat is the staff. Good staff is hard to find, ex- cellent staff nigh impossible. Diners here are well taken care of. The staff is confident enough to make per- tinent suggestions about selecting from the menu, wine pairings and the harrowing decision, at the end of the night, about dessert. But I am getting ahead of my- self. Dessert was just the last tough call we had to make that night. We started out with an amouse bouche – a shot of courgette and asparagus soup with black truffle oil. It was one of those things you try and wish there was more of. A moreish suggestion of winter that was welcome on a breezy evening. Next came the paccheri with Mal- tese sausage ragu and saffron. My guest and I decided to share and, split between us, it was the perfect portion size to make sure our later courses encountered no difficulties. The al dente pasta rings made the prefect vehicle for the rich, creamy ragu. We both had to restrain ourselves from chasing the last drops of sauce around the plate. The main course brought the milk- fed veal for me and the Norwegian salmon for my guest, with a bowl of roast vegetables and roast potatoes to share. The veal was beautifully tender and offered a range of colour that would not be out of place in a wa- tercolour – pale pink in the middle, growing darker towards the edges. It also came with a raisin jus that added a complex contrast to the meat. The salmon also went down well – simply grilled and drizzled with olive oil, it was moist and fell apart in a most satisfying way. We were tempted to share a des- sert – the chef's specialty of white chocolate cheesecake – but were convinced to also try the pistachio and olive oil cake by our attentive waiter. Both choices were, we later discovered, unmissable. The cheese- cake had a flambéed crust, pairing its light and airy middle with the crunch and crackle of a crème brulee-like surface. The pistachio cake married nutty flavour with the unmistakable taste and odour of olive oil, making for a surprisingly good combination. We left feeling satisfied and eager to discuss our meal, something we had ample opportunity to do as we made our way past families sitting outside their boathouses, vessels creaking slowly on the water's surface and golden halos around the streetlights. Spinola Terrace delivers on all fronts, even down to the after-dinner stroll. WINE OF THE WEEK Spinola Terrace 102, Spinola Road St Julian's. Tel: 99990011 Email: spinolaterrace@gmail.com Web: www.spinolaterrace.com Rachel Zammit Cutajar takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt FOOD Stunning views and food to match Spinola eateries have been known to be busy whether they serve quality food or not. Thankfully Spinola Terrace is one that marries the stunning views of the bay with incredible food. RACHEL AGIUS checks it out

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