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MT 9 November 2014

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 22 MAY 2011 37 Olives The small fruit that gives us ol- ive oil, the lowly olive, is a great source of f lavour in Mediterra- nean cooking. However the dif- ferent varieties make for different f lavours. Out of the hundreds of different varieties of olive tree, some are very similar, with only DNA fin- gerprinting separating the types of olive. However some others differ tremendously with fruit varying in size, oil content, taste, chemical characteristics and ripening time among others. When it comes to differences in olives, most people can only say that some are green while oth- ers are black. The only difference between a green and a black ol- ive, however is the ripeness of the fruit, where a green olive is actu- ally an unripened fruit. Green olives are usually pitted and often stuffed with various fill- ings including pimentos, almonds, anchovies, jalapenos, onions or capers, while black olives are more often sold with their pit, though pitted varieties are also available. Cultivated for over 6,000 years, the olive is a mark of the Mediter- ranean where it typically grows in climates of relatively mild winters and hot dry summers. Straight from the tree the olive is bitter and inedible and requires curing, usually in lye brine or salt. The taste of olives is affected not only by their variety but by ripe- ness and curing time. Heat also causes the olive to go bitter so they are best added to hot dishes at the end of cooking. Olive varieties Cerignola – An enormous olive sold either green or black. When green it has a mild and vegetal f la- vour though when it turns black the f lesh is softer and sweeter and is much easier to pit. Gaeta – A small brownish black olive that can be hard to pit but the f lavour, which is reminiscent of nuts, is worth the effort. Kalamata – A plump, purplish black olive that grows in Greece. It is a good option for recipes that include black olives. Manzanilla – This Spanish olive is most available at supermarkets. It is generally pitted and stuffed with pimentos or garlic. They are often used in martinis. Moroccan oil-cured – These shrivelled black olives are some- what bitter and best used in cook- ing rather than for snacking. Nicose – A small, purplish brown olive that is grown in southern France. They are chewy and f la- vourful and like the Gaeta, diffi- cult to pit. Sicilian green – These oversized green olives have a dense, some- what tart f lesh. RECIPE OF THE WEEK maltatoday, SUNDAY, 9 NOVEMBER 2014 FINE FOOD OF THE WEEK The mark of the Mediterranean FOOD Marinated olives Sean Gravina Ingredients • 1½ cups Kalamata olives or other brine- cured black olives • 1½ cups cracked brine-cured green olives • 1 cup olive oil • ¼ cup chopped fresh coriander • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice • ¼ cup orange juice • 6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced • 3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley • 1 tbsp grated lemon peel • 1 tbsp grated orange peel • ½ tsp dried crushed red pepper Method 1. Combine all ingredients in a large heavy- duty re-sealable plastic bag. 2. Shake bag to blend ingredients. 3. Refrigerate at least 1 day and up to 3 days, turning bag occasionally. 4. Transfer olives and some marinade to bowl. 5. Let stand for 1 hour at room temperature before serving. The only difference between a green and a black olive is the ripeness of the fruit, where a green olive is actually an unripened fruit

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