Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/416739
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 16 NOVEMBER 2014 TRAVEL 43 world, but they would have roads and gardens. This is just an enor- mous expanse of stone, with noth- ing to give it that something extra. It could swallow ten thousand peo- ple without problem, and you have to wonder why it was conceived. We resisted buying the t-shirt, baseball cap, and plastic model of the Cam- panile Tower, and started to visit what we really came here for. It's not a big town. If you knew your way around, you could prob- ably walk from one end to the other in less than a couple of hours. But the maze of streets and canals is so complicated that it's easy to get lost, and that's exactly what we wanted to do. You literally don't have to go more than a block away from the main attractions to lose the crowds, and what you find is an experi- ence that is hard to beat. You will need comfortable shoes, and not be afraid of walking. The architecture ranges from charming to majestic, and has mainly survived in its origi- nal form. The complexity of demolishing and rebuilding a house in Venice has probably been a major factor in its preservation. If you don't ap- preciate renaissance architecture, there's very little point in visit- ing this unique place. Many of the streets are devoid of tourists, with simply a few locals going about their business. Don't be afraid to rest your legs while sipping a cap- puccino, as the prices in the small cafés and restaurants are surpris- ingly reasonable. Often you will come to dead ends. What appears to be a semi- important street will get to a canal with no bridge to cross over. And, conversely, sometimes small alleys will have bridges. Even if you have a great sense of direction, you will rarely be sure of where you are on the map. But there's an easy way to find out. The map given to you by your hotel is quite detailed, and all the churches are shown and in- dexed. You won't be able to walk very far without finding a church, and with the name of the church (which will also be the name of the square in front of it) you will have no difficulty pinpointing your posi- tion. It would be highly presumptuous of me to suggest where you should go, and what you should visit. Two days of walking the city will exhaust most people, and two days is not enough. But a favorite of mine was the eastern area of the island. Lunch at the Osteria da Nico on the Square of Saints Giovanni e Paolo will give you a well-earned break, with good inexpensive food, and friendly service. The area west and south of here, known as the Greek Quarter, is one of the town's hidden delights. Dinner at La Canti- na in the Ca'd'Oro Quarter is a way to end the day. The Hotel Ca'd'Oro is a hidden jewel. There are plenty of museums to visit, but if you are fed up with the usual ware, a breath of fresh air is an exhibition called La Divina Marchesa, which is run- ning at the Palazzo Fortuny until 8th March. Although my reservations about Venice were founded, they were more than compensated by the hidden parts of this fabulous liv- ing museum. Another visit in the Springtime is de rigeur, this time to visit the other lesser known islands in the Lagoon, such as the Lido, and Murano. Gondoliers at rest Start of the super highway San Marco Grand Canal No tourists