Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/455578
XII maltatoday, SUNDAY, 1 FEBRUARY 2015 Food Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Valley Road, B'Kara Tel: 2144 4400 Rioja Reserva 2008 – Bodegas LAN, Spain 90 pts Wine Advocate (Robert Parker) This highly regarded area of Spain makes some of the best Tempranillo-based wines in the world. Once the only DOCa (recently joined by Priorat in 2001), Rioja is divided into 3 sub-regions: Rioja Baja, Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa. There are 4 red varieties and 3 white varieties allowed in the Rioja DOC. Tempranillo defi nitely takes center stage, followed by Garnacha (Grenache)), which is sometimes added for body, then Graciano and Mazuelo (Carignan). The region also makes roses. For whites, the main grape is Viura (or Macebo), producing fresh, early-drinking wines. Malvasia, the grape that was once the most planted white, is found less often. This wine exhibits aromas of red fruits, cherry and strawberry are blended with the notes of vanilla and spice from the oak. Liquored cherries and black pepper on the palate with a well-structured and fl eshy fi nish. Toast and espresso notes frame plum, blackberry and chocolate fl avours in this polished red. This has lively acidity and well-integrated tannins. A modern style. Drink now through 20. Imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, B'Kara T: 2144-4400 With the warm weather having finally packed it in, the relief from the heat comes with its own drawbacks. Venturing out of the house, into an evening that is still dark in spite of the length- ening day, can be a challenge, particularly on a weekday. So it was with relatively high expectations that my guest and I made our way to Marsax- lokk, the strong smell of the sea buffeting us about on a blustery evening. We walked into Terrone, right across from the roiling ocean, grateful to be out of the wind. Parking was a breeze, a welcome luxury in the busy seaside town. It also made our walk back to the car thankfully short – an important consideration on a full stomach. On our way in, a small deck played host to some braver souls than us, enjoying a glass of wine outdoors, seemingly unperturbed by the dropping temperature. Smooth stone and muted teal accents welcomed us and patterned tiles added an eye- catching detail to the bar. Tonight however, we would be partaking in the food rather than the liquid fare, though that outdoor deck seems like the perfect place to do so in slightly more accommodating weather. We headed into the dining room, decorated with antique tools, images of traditional life on the walls and fish traps cleverly converted into light fixtures. There is no doubt that Terrone, on the seafront in Marsaxlokk, was holding on lovingly to the local fishing culture. The dining room was a manageable size, ensuring the place neither echoed nor forced patrons to overhear each other's dinner conversations. A friendly waiter saw us to our table and handed us menus. They were newly printed – and dated – and comprised of only a single page, testament to Chef Adrian Hili's (pictured) commitment to using only fresh, in-season, local and regional produce in Maltese, Sicilian and southern Italian dishes. The wine list was slightly longer but was equally focused on Mediterranean wines, many offered by the glass, a great opportunity to match wines with each course without having the problem of wasting perfectly good wine because it does not complement the next dish. The word 'terrone' is both a slang term of in- habitants of the south of Italy and has a strong linguistic connection to the earth. And this is exactly what the menu is going for. If you're looking for an intimidating list of ingredients or some overly complicated preparation, then perhaps Terrone is not for you. The focus here is on preserving the natural flavours of quality produce without distorting them through destructive preparation methods or competing ingredient selections. A pretty even symmetry between fish and meat dishes, as well as some vegetarian options, means that there's something for everyone on the menu, although it made it extra difficult to choose. Still, even with such a carefully curated selection, it was difficult to make a decision. Eventually, after some deliberation – and two slices of warm focaccia – we made our choice. A somewhat standard selection of cold cuts was followed by spinach and ricotta-stuffed pasta with Parmesan shavings, offering a balanced bite every time. A word of warn- ing though – it is tempting to fill up on the focaccia, topped with herbs and aubergine. It is certainly delicious but you should leave room for what's to come. That, for my guest, was the turbot, and wood smoked pork chops for me. The fish was tender, fall-off-the-bone moist and came with roasted potatoes and capers. The pork made the both of us do a double take when it arrived. Two rather large and intimidating chops were stacked atop a bed of spinach and chickpeas. I attacked both with gusto but was eventually defeated. In hindsight, I should have stuck to just one slice of that focaccia. Luckily, the secondary dessert stomach – that extra space, an accepted urban legend, un- proven by science, for dessert in a full stomach – had just enough room for the final course. On the recommendation of our host, both of us chose the pistachio cake with ice cream, a decision neither of us regretted one bit. The cake was moist, topped with whole pistachios and citrus peel for a satisfying crunch and a burst of tanginess. The ice cream provided the ideal sweet counterpoint for the subtle flavours of the cake. Terrone ticks all the boxes for a perfect evening out. Low-key enough to appeal to those wanting a quiet meal, it offers plenty of distraction with the food itself. As our meal wrapped up and we steeled ourselves for our exit into the chilly night, bellies full and with plenty to talk about, we couldn't help but feel that our brave foray into the inclement weather was worth it. WINE OF THE WEEK Rachel Zammit Cutajar takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Braving the cold may seem less appealing now that we are well into winter. However, RACHEL AGIUS finds out just how rewarding it may be if that outing involves a trip to Marsaxlokk's Terrone Resto of the week Uncomplicated, natural flavours Terrone 1, Wilga Street, Marsaxlokk, Tel: 27042656 Email: info@terrone.com.mt Web: www.terrone.com.mt PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD