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MT 15 MARCH 2015

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IX maltatoday, Sunday, 15 March 2015 Food Fine food of the week Traditional flavours of traditional gbejniet Following a period where, as a population, we tended to go with the notion that if it was made abroad it was better, the local stuff is starting to take over and artisan foodstuffs are being given the credit they deserve. Gbejniet recipes have been passed down from generation to generation and remain a trusted favourite among both Maltese and tourists alike. e original recipes for gbejniet date back to before the British introduced the cow to our shores, so as a result were made with sheep or goats' milk. e production of gbe- jniet is steeped in tradition, with a number of rules having been passed on from mother to daughter – some of which are plainly su- perstition. It was locally believed that the best cheese was prepared from the milk of sheep born in autumn, and not from those born in spring. e fact is that during a rainy season when the sheep can have as much grass as they desire the milk is more plentiful. e more grass and fodder they get, the better the milk and the cheese produced. A local tradition held that the best cheese could be obtained in the months with the letter R: September, October, November, December, January, February, March and April. Milk was not considered good enough in the months without an R: May, June, July and August. In a world without refrigerators you could see why this worked. Gbejniet are made by adding rennet – a di- gestive enzyme produced by mammals – to the milk and allowing the milk to stand until it hardens enough to be cut with a knife, whereupon it is placed in plastic containers and allowed to harden further. Gbejniet are available in three different types. A large quantity is sold fresh as gbejni- et friski, and are best eaten with some crispy Maltese bread. Gbejniet are also available half-dried, moxxi. e cheese that was settled for 24 hours. Fresh gbejniet can be left to dry on cheese-hurdles inside a nemusiera, a small box covered with a mosquito screen to shield the gbejniet from mosquitoes. Such boxes were once a common sight in the vil- lages and some still survive. In about two to three days the cheese is dry enough to be sold, and after a few more days they are good for grating. Gbejniet are also available peppered, gbejniet tal-bzar. Semi-dried gbejniet are dipped in boiling water and dried with a cloth, then placed in a bottle and sprinkled with salt, pepper and vinegar according to taste. Ingredients 6 dried gbejniet • Handful baby spinach • 1 beef tomato • 1 pear • Handful pistachios, roasted • Handful basil • Olive oil • Salt and pepper • Method Place the pine cones in foil and set them on fire. • Place the cheese to one side of the dish. • Place the burning pine cones onto the other side of • the dish. Cover with two pieces of foil and seal. The fire will go • out but the pine cones will keep smoking, imparting flavour to the cheese. Allow to smoke for approx. 10 mins • To make the salad place the spinach at the bottom of • the dish. Chop the tomato and the pear and place in the dish. • Cut the smoked cheese into strips and place on top. • Add the basil and pistachios. • Season with salt and pepper and add a lug of olive • oil. Serve with Maltese bread. • Recipe of the week Smoked gbejna and pear salad Michael diacono This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 6 March, 2015.

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