Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/490723
VIII maltatoday, SUNDAY, 5 APRIL 2015 Food The grapes were harvested in the third week of September. Fermentation lasted 8 days at a temperature of 28° - 30° C. (82° - 86° F.). The wine matured for 12 months, 50% in 350 liter (92 gallon) tonneaux and 50% in 60 hectoliter (1,320 gallon) oak barrels, followed by a further period of bottle ageing. Broad and persistent, in which one finds, apart from almond blossom notes, intense spicy hints. Dry, well-structured and extremely rounded, it offers very complex fruit flavors on the palate. These are reminiscent of cherries preserved in brandy, mingled with a very appealing spiciness that lingers on the finish. Food matches: Delicious with richly- flavored dishes, barbecued meats and fairly aged cheeses. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Nero d'Avola - Principi di Butera, Sicily Area The districts of Butera and Riesi in the Province of Caltanissetta Grape 100% Nero d'Avola You've got to hand it to Valletta – the old girl's really getting her act together. A number of fine eateries have sprung up of late, making the City's 0.8km2 jam-packed with a variety of restaurants to choose from, for all kinds of budgets. So it was with an equal mix of interest and gentle scepticism that we made our way to The Harbour Club. Just metres away from a roiling ocean on a windy night, it was not exactly at the heart of the 'action' (read: Strait Street and its environs) but there was one glorious trade-off instead – parking was a cinch. Walking in, you're met with a small, cosy dining area, a warming parquet underfoot and the sandy stone of the surrounding for- tress making the world outside seem distant and harmless. The menu provided was similarly fortify- ing. Short and sweet (never trust a place with an endless menu – something, either service or quality, has got to give), it nonetheless posed a challenge. A selection of fish, meat and vegetarian dishes were complemented by the day's specials. An embarrassing amount of time later, we finally made a decision. My pappardelle, which arrived holding up a generous heap of rich veal ragu, was the right choice. The pasta was al dente and the sauce was not overwhelming – a good thing, since the portion was not exactly tiny. With julienned asparagus latticed neatly on top, it was almost too good-looking to eat. Almost. My companion had the home-cured salmon with a lime gel, a burst of flavour and colour that brought the fish, stellar in its own rights, to another level. It was fish again for the main course, a beautiful cut of John Dory in a herb crust that drew many a satisfied sound across the table. I had the pan-roasted pork loin, a won- derful mix of colours, from the subtle pink of the meat to the bright red drizzle of caramel- ized apple. I almost felt guilty cutting into the tender, juicy, rosy pork. Almost. My guest's John Dory, wrapped in herb powder, was as architecturally stunning as our surroundings. Both were carefully crafted – the fish by the chef Laszlo Sragli), the restaurant by architect Chris Briffa – and both delivered on style and substance. On the Harbour Club's design, the restored fortress doesn't miss a beat. The dining room, a warm haven in the winter, sits below the outdoor seating area, with its refreshing sea breeze in the warmer months – this place is an all-weather gem. Below decks is a well stocked bar, a great place to start or end an evening with a few drinks in the similarly gorgeous lower level. We wrapped up the evening with a white chocolate parfait. I was suspicious when my companion turned down dessert, with the assertion that there simply was no room for it. I asked for two spoons anyway, which eventually left me out of half a dessert. Good guys finish last, it seems. The parfait, on the other hand, disappeared in record time, along with the accompanying orange segments and crunchy pistachios it was garnished with. Head down to The Harbour Club for any number of reasons – a quiet nightcap, a sumptuous meal or the early inklings of a rowdy night on the town. Just make sure to leave space for that dessert. Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Resto of the week The Harbour Club 4/5 Quarry Wharf 2122 2332 Food that's almost too good to eat – almost Overlooking Grand Harbour, The Harbour Club offers dishes as beautiful as its surroundings. RACHEL AGIUS heads down there to check out this new spot that's slowly becoming the talk of the town.