Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/534048
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 28 JUNE 2015 This Week 41 Clothe to revolt What was it like to transition from Malta to the UK? I left Malta for the UK at the early age 19, so the transition was quite an adventure. I had no idea how tough and challenging this transition could be. I returned to Malta four years later feeling I didn't want to be part of the fash- ion industry, for reasons that re- mained unclear. But seven years on, I decided to test myself again and embark on a Masters course back in London and I can say that the transition was hugely liberat- ing this time round! What I had bottled up inside for four years in Malta was finding its way out. Al- most to my surprise, my thought process and execution of ideas was getting quite a positive response, which gave me courage to grow and continue my analysis of the fashion industry. Getting into the right course at university had a big role in this, as I could not have chosen a more apt or 'radical' course which extracted my inner thoughts, and where my beliefs seemed to be reciprocated. What enabled your participation in the London and Berlin Fashion weeks? I would like to believe that having a valid message was the main rea- son, and offering a product with a fresh attitude must also have had a role in it. But most of all, as clichéd as it may sound, I would say: work- ing very hard, being organised, not being too proud to ask for help (in all ways and forms) never letting doubt or fear take over, being ab- solutely determined, being a pleas- ant person (that may sound absurd but in an industry where pleasant- ries often go lacking, it does help!) and being 'on it' all the time. When did you first realise that fashion design was what you wanted to do, and how did your taste – and subsequently, your work – evolve over time? To be honest, I don't really know... I don't think I have the sort of story: "I was born a designer and I've been sewing my own clothes since before I could walk"... I have always been on the innova- tive side "since the time I started to walk" but perhaps fashion came to my mind during my International Baccalaureate year at school and talk of university was in the air. I have always been intrigued by self- expression and at the time fashion was the most obvious vessel. And it existed as a university option! I was never really into drawing 'pretty dresses' and such, but ex- perience and learning do change your taste. I think the most notable change for me was from undergrad to postgrad. During my BA course I was too worried about what fash- ion "needs to be" and also too busy with the technicalities of it. I did not allow myself the freedom and the confidence to ask myself what I really thought about fashion and I did not feel very comfortable with myself because of this. During my MA studies I had the time to think about it, analyse those thoughts – get passionate about it, and let it all out! This definitely af- fected my taste and changed my perception of the 'product' to be created. I feel I have finally found my voice and the courage to cross into other disciplines, borrow from them and make them 'fash- ion'. I am now very clear in under- standing and confident in saying that fashion is not only a garment – something I would not have said nine years ago, or perhaps even three years ago. Technically, I create menswear now; it was maybe the apparent sobriety and functionality attached to it that mostly appealed to me in- itially. But not really, because the same elements can equally apply to womenswear. Then again, and more importantly, it is not about the garments, it is the philosophy that makes it fashion. The gar- ments are only clothes. Demo Division aims to criticise the fashion world's superficiality – perceived or otherwise. What led you to take this take, and do you think it can affect tangible change? Demo Division is actually an ab- breviation for 'Democracy Divi- sion' so we are all for freedom of thought and expression, and feel that everyone is entitled to his or her opinion on the subject. How- ever, this 'Democracy' allows for free rein in the industry and some practitioners might take on a more superficial approach than others. We prefer not to. To be part of the 'Demo Division' cult is to un- derstand that fashion has a deeper meaning, and we encourage an in- teractive and intelligent approach. As for the potential of tangible change... I just hope that our mes- sage will spread and shine a more creditable light on the world of fashion. We do not claim that our approach is something new, but it might not be as widespread as the more mainstream view with its connotation of 'superficiality'. I hope there will eventually be a wider, more general understand- ing that 'fashion' is more complex and investigative than it may seem at first glance and details such as colour and style are secondary matters. For more information, log on to www.demodivision.com CALL FOR TENDERS As part of the project ESF no. 4.220 – "Developing a Culture of Rights through Capacity Building", the National Commission for the Promotion of Equality (NCPE) is requesting submissions for the provision of: PUBLICATION REFERENCE: DT-NCPE/11/2015 TENDER TITLE: Service Tender for the provision of Research on Equality Bodies' Good Practices in the field of non-Discrimination Any queries should be sent to equality@gov.mt by not later than Tuesday 14th July 2015 at 5.15pm, specifying the publication reference and the tender title. Clarification Meetings will be held on Tuesday 7th July 2015 at 10.00am at NCPE premises. Closing Date for submission of tenders is Monday 20th July 2015 at 10.00am. All submissions should be hand-delivered to our offices. Terms of reference can be obtained from our offices or from our website (see details below). It is recommended that interested bidders register such interest with NCPE so that they can be notified immediately of any communication/clarification issued in relation to such tender. NCPE Gattard House, National Road, Blata l-Bajda HMR 9010 Tel: 2590 3850 Fax: 2590 3851 E-mail: equality@gov.mt Web: www.equality.gov.mt Operational Programme II – Cohesion Policy 2007-2013 Empowering People for More Jobs and a Better Quality of Life Project part-financed by the European Union European Social Fund (ESF) Co-financing rate: 85% EU Funds; 15% National Funds Investing in your future With the aim of subverting the fashion industry's tendency to valorise the superficial over the substantial (or, in this case, the politically engaged), freshly-graduated young fashion designer Louise Aquilina will be taking her latest collection to Berlin in early July. She speaks to TEODOR RELJIC about participating at Seek Berlin with Demo Division, after having also participated at the London Fashion Week last September Louise Aquilina