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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 2 AUGUST 2015 Food 35 Fine food of the week Olives The small fruit that gives us ol- ive oil, the lowly olive, is a great source of flavour in Mediterra- nean cooking. However, the dif- ferent varieties make for differ- ent flavours. Out of the hundreds of different varieties of olive tree some are very similar, with only DNA fin- gerprinting separating the types of olive, however some others differ tremendously, with fruit varying in size, oil content, taste, chemical characteristics and rip- ening time among others. When it comes to differences in olives, most people can only say that some are green while others are black. The only differ- ence between a green and a black olive, however is the ripeness of the fruit, where a green olive is actually an unripened fruit. Green olives are usually pit- ted and often stuffed with vari- ous fillings including pimentos, almonds, anchovies, jalapenos, onions or capers, while black olives are more often sold with their pit, though pitted varieties are also available. Cultivated for over 6,000 years the olive is a mark of the Medi- terranean where it typically grows in climates of relatively mild winters and hot dry sum- mers. Straight from the tree the ol- ive is bitter and inedible and re- quires curing, usually in lye brine or salt. The taste of olives is af- fected not only by their variety but by ripeness and curing time. Heat also causes the olive to go bitter so they are best added to hot dishes at the end of cooking. Olive varieties Cerignola – An enormous ol- ive sold either green or black. When green it has a mild and vegetal flavour though when it turns black the flesh is softer and sweeter and is much easier to pit. Gaeta – A small brownish black olive that can be hard to pit but the flavour, which is reminiscent of nuts, is worth the effort. Kalamata – A plump, purplish black olive that grows in Greece. It is a good option for recipes that include black olives. Manzanilla – This Spanish olive is most available at super- markets. It is generally pitted and stuffed with pimentos or garlic. They are often used in martinis. Moroccan oil-cured – These shrivelled black olives are some- what bitter and best used in cooking rather than for snack- ing. Nicose – A small, purplish brown olive that is grown in southern France. They are chewy and flavourful and like the Gaeta difficult to pit. Sicilian green – These over- sized green olives have a dense, somewhat tart flesh. The mark of the Mediterranean Sean Gravina Ingredients • 4.44g instant yeast • 275ml warm water • 500g strong flour • 4 tbsp olive oil • 1 tsp salt • 180g black olives, pitted and chopped Egg wash • Egg yolk • Dash milk • Dash olive oil • Coarse salt Method Preheat the oven to 220°C. 1. Place an oven tray in the oven and allow to 2. get really hot. Add the yeast to the flour and place in a 3. mixer with a dough hook. Add the warm water and knead for 15 mins 4. until silky and elastic. Add the olive oil, salt and chopped olives 5. and knead again for 5 mins. Cover the dough with a damp cloth and set 6. aside in a warm place until the dough has doubled in size (approx. 40 mins). Knock back the dough and form into a loaf 7. shape on a floured surface. Allow to rise for another 20 mins. 8. Place the loaf on the hot baking tray from 9. the oven. Mix the egg yolk, milk and olive oil and 10. lightly brush the loaf. Finely chop the rosemary and combine 11. it with coarse salt. Sprinkle over the top of the loaf. Bake in the oven for 30 mins or until 12. cooked through. Place on a wire rack to cool. 13. Recipe of the week The only difference between a green and a black olive is the ripeness of the fruit, where a green olive is actually an unripened fruit Olive and rosemary bread