Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/560195
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 23 AUGUST 2015 34 Food Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Resto of the week First mentioned in 1250, the Saering plot escapes from the hill and extends like a peninsula on the plain, forming a sort of tongue of land in the form of a ring. It has been sold under its own since 1830. The grapes are hand-picked and whole bunches are pressed. There is static settling of the lees. The wine is fermented in temperature controlled tuns, followed by raising on the less for 8 months. The color is lemon yellow with green reflections. The disk is bright, limpid and transparent. The wine presents a beautiful youth. The nose is frank, pleasant and bold with an average intensity. It gives fine fruity fragrances, citrus fruit, yellow lemon, white flowers, rather complex. Airing enhances the lemony scents but remains complex and austere. The fruit reveals the perfect ripeness of the grapes but seems to cross through a closed stage. The onset in the mouth is rich and fleshy. The alcoholic base is full-bodied. The register is sharp and sparkling where the range of aromas is dominated by the citrus fruit, lime and a fine floral touch with at this stage, an underlying minerality. A long length on the finish, 7 caudalies and a sharp vivacity. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 2009 Rieslign Saering 'Grand Cru' – Schlumberger, Alsace, France THERE is something very soothing about the sound of the ocean. Maybe it's be- cause I was born on an island, surround- ed by a vast, tireless expanse of water, or maybe it's just a welcome break from the thrum of daily life, with its cars and smartphones and every other modern noise. Combine that innate attraction to the sound of water with good food and you have a match made in heaven. This is presumably what Etienne's is going for. It is tucked away in a small cove along the Cottonera waterfront, an area that has undergone drastic re- generation over the recent years, cre- ating a hub of restaurants, gargantuan yachts sitting placidly at their moorings and one of the most desirable addresses on the island. Somehow (and perhaps thankfully) this stretch of quayside has remained something of a hidden gem. While I am certain that all the estab- lishments along the waterside do brisk trade, it comes mainly from those savvy to what the area has to offer. Your stroll along the water will take you past luxury yachts, the casino and a few buildings that are still waiting in line for their renovation. Embraced by fortifications on both sides, Etienne's is a great shelter from the rest of the world, whether you come by land or by sea – you can dock your boat right at his doorstep. A selection of fresh produce awaits you, from the mozzarella to the shim- mering fish of all different sorts. You might find you need a moment to take it all in – a regular menu complements the daily specials. We were started off by an amouse bouche of roast fig, topped with walnuts, caramelized onion and gorgonzola. It came in what looked like a swanky glass egg and the morsel inside was fantastic. The cheese played won- derfully with the onion and the walnuts crunched through the subtle smokiness of the fig. A deconstructed caprese salad ar- rived for me next, with slices of tomato topped with rounds of mozzarella and a single basil leaf. When it comes down to it, that's all you really need for the full caprese experience and being neatly portioned makes for an interesting nov- elty. The selection of meat looked more like a tour of South America than a menu, with Argentinian and Brazilian offer- ings rubbing shoulders with the classic bistecca Fiorentina and a sorely tempt- ing veal rack. I chose a ribeye of Uru- guayan extraction while my guest chose one of those plump, silvery fish from the display, after much deliberation. Neither of us was disappointed and our attentive waiter offering to clean the fish at the table was a welcome display of skill and attention to detail. The sides – roast potatoes and a mix of grilled veg – were moreish and there was little left on our plates in almost record time. Dessert was, in a word, pretty. My ti- ramisu was presented in a tall glass, its layers visible and offering a distinctly artistic element to this classic sweet. My guest chose the chocolate fondant, which arrived on an oblong slate with a scoop of ice cream. Cutting into the fondant – the moment of truth – was just as satisfying as we'd hoped. Molten chocolate spewed out of the warm cake, prompting a flurry of action so as not to miss a single, gooey drop. In all, a trip to Etienne's is certainly worth your while. The walk along the promenade, the glow of the limestone fortifications in the failing light and the spectacular view are part of the package. Potential diners be warned – you will find you constantly have to split your attention between the wonderful sur- roundings and the excellent fare on your dinner table. Etienne's Kitchen and Yacht Lounge Fort St Angelo, Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa. Tel: 99441390 Facebook: Etiennes-Kitchen-Yacht- Lounge Wonderful surroundings at Etienne's Kitchen and Yacht Lounge In a world of information, true hidden gems are hard to come by. RACHEL AGIUS heads to Etienne's Kitchen and Yacht Lounge to discover the secrets of the Vittoriosa Waterfront.