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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 30 AUGUST 2015 Food 35 Fine food of the week Pecorino Parmeggiano Reggiano takes the spotlight when it comes to Italian hard cheeses, with its crystally textures and deep flavours. How- ever it is not the only hard cheese worth shouting about that comes out of Italy. Pecorino cheeses refer to all Italian cheeses made with ewe's milk, hence its name – pecora be- ing the Italian word for sheep. Though Pecorino is made throughout Italy and Sicily, there are numerous varieties that differ in flavour and texture according to the region it is produced in. The most famous variety out- side of Italy is the Pecorino Ro- mano. DOP protected, it is most- ly manufactured on the island of Sardinia, though production is also allowed in Lazio and the Tuscan province of Grosseto. Other popular protected varie- ties are the Pecorino Sardo, from Sardinia, Pecorino Toscano and the Pecorino Siciliano. All come in a variety of styles depending on how long they have been aged. The more matured cheeses, referred to as stagionato ("seasoned" or "aged"), are harder but still crumbly in texture and have decidedly buttery and nutty flavours. The other two types semi-stagionato and fresco have a softer texture and milder cream and milk tastes. In Southern Italy, it is tradi- tional to add black peppercorns or red chilli flakes to Pecorino, producing what is called Pecori- no Pepato – literally, "peppered Pecorino". Today many other additions are made, for example walnuts or rucola or tiny pieces of white or black truffle. In Sardinia, the larvae of the cheese fly are intentionally in- troduced into Pecorino Sardo to produce a local delicacy called casu marzu. Fiore Sardo is a va- riety of pecorino from Sardinia, made using a rennet derived from wild flowers. A good Pecorino Stagionato is often the finish of a meal, served with pears and walnuts or driz- zled with strong chestnut honey. It is also often used to finish pasta dishes, and used to be the natural choice for most Italian regions from Umbria down to Sicily, rather than the more expensive Parmeggiano Reggiano. It is still preferred today for the pasta dishes of Rome and Lazio, par- ticularly in pasta all'amatriciana, pasta cacio and pasta alla Gricia. The aromatic Pecorino delle Crete Senesi comes from Tus- cany, and is coated with to- mato paste; Pecorino Toscano is a milder, tomato-less version. Pecorino Siciliano Canestrato comes in various forms, including the fresh Tuma, a half-ripened version (called Primusali), and a mature one suitable for grating. Pecorino dolce is a lightly salt- ed example of the cheese, and is usually eaten fresh. Buttery sheep's cheese from Italy Ingredients 3 small courgettes • A pinch of salt • Extra virgin olive oil • 30g aged Pecorino Romano • Runny honey • Fresh mint • Pine nuts, toasted • Method Place a griddle pan on a high heat. 1. While it heats up, slice the courgettes on 2. an angle into medium-large chunks. Put them in a bowl, add a pinch of salt 3. and a drop of olive oil and run your hands through to coat them lightly. Lay them in the hot pan and don't be 4. tempted to move them until they have black char lines. Turn them over and cook for another cou- 5. ple of minutes to chargrill the other side. Using a peeler, shave the Pecorino into a 6. bowl, tip in the courgettes straight from the griddle and mix well. Season to taste with salt. 7. Lavishly trickle over a small drizzle of hon- 8. ey to coat the courgettes lightly while they are still warm, in order to intensify the fla- vours and bind everything together. Garnish with more shavings of Pecorino, 9. mint and toasted pine nuts. Serve on small plates and eat while still 10. slightly warm. Recipe of the week Warm courgette, pecorino and honey salad Serves 2 (as a starter or 1 as a main)