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MT 13 September 2015

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 13 SEPTEMBER 2015 34 Food Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Resto of the week Bin 2 was first released in 1960, yet was discontinued in Australia in the 1970s at the height of the white wine boom. The original Bin 2 was an 'Australian Burgundy' style (despite its Rhône varieties) – typically a soft, medium-bodied wine based on Shiraz. The Bin 2 blend of Shiraz and Mourvèdre is still relatively uncommon in Australian table wines. Also known as Mataro or Monastrell, Mourvèdre was introduced to Australia in the 1830s. Sometimes used in fortified wine production, this grape is widely planted in the Barossa Valley. It is greatly valued by winemakers for its blending attributes, adding complexity and palate grip. Interest in Bin 2 has grown as the popularity of traditional Rhône varieties and blends continues to flourish. NOSE: Inviting. Lifted aromatics hovering above – sweet yeast bun, fresh liquorice. Red curranted fruits, sour cherry, fresh quince… A 'trifled' vinous chromatogram – jelly/custard/coconut! Bin 2 'Shiraz Mataro' 2013 – Penfolds, Barossa, Australia Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 CIBO sits on the Tigne Point piazza, a small slice of what a cosmopolitan city would look like if we had one. Kids play- ing in the water fountain and the hum of diners and shoppers milling about make for a pleasant backdrop to the eatery's outdoor area. A welcome cross-breeze, with a faint hint of the sea, means that even on the warmest evenings, there is little risk of overheating. Although we sat outside, Cibo's interi- or should not be ignored. With a feature wall covered in famous quotes about food and the wood oven protected by a giant brass face, jaws agape, the inside looks as though it would be a cozy re- treat during the colder months. With such emphasis on a wood-burn- ing oven, it made perfect sense to try out the pizzas. This decision was also helped along by the satisfied sounds other din- ers made as they bit into their first slice. We started off with some bruschetta to share. A simple, perfectly Mediterranean beginning to the meal that saw a small mozzarella di Bufala wrapped in a de- lightfully salty slice of Parma ham with a sort of balsamic vinegar glaze. I must admit at having felt a little hurt that only three pieces arrived, forcing me and my companion to really re-evaluate our re- lationship as we debated who would get what, before we finally agreed on split- ting the last slice very carefully down the middle. We could not bear to separate one ingredient from its friends. After our plates were cleared away and we were just starting to get anxious – our fellow diners' dishes made it dif- ficult to focus on conversation – the piz- zas arrived. My capriciosa – a trusted choice – ar- rived along with a 'del bosco' pizza. The former was a solid performance, an ut- terly satisfying take on an old favourite. The latter combined Parmesan cheese with walnuts and mushrooms and I was glad I could convince my companion to barter a slice or two. Some pizza crusts are relegated to the side of the plate, abandoned in favour of less heavy, less filling pizza regions, in order to optimize the stomach volume to pizza ratio. The crust here suffered no such fate. Light and airy, the dough was not simply part of the pizza's architec- ture, there to hold things together, but a delight in itself. The middle also re- mained dry, avoiding the sogginess that sometimes plagues an inferior creation. On both pizzas, the thin brown skin on the mushrooms belied the freshness of the ingredients – nothing came from a can or a freezer and it was pretty obvious that a great deal of care went into mak- ing our relatively uncomplicated meal. Lightness of the dough aside, we felt too full to attempt dessert, although the menu offered a small but tempting se- lection. A walk by the sea was just the thing, giving us a chance to digest our pleasant evening and decide to put Cibo down on our 'will visit again' list. Cibo is open daily between 12:00-16:00 and 18:00-23:00. CIBO TP01 Tigne Point 3000 Sliema Tel: 7962 9262 Email: info@cibo.com.mt Web: www.cibo.com.mt Wood-fired pizzas and a summer sea breeze

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