Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/602004
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 15 NOVEMBER 2015 36 Food A true 'Second vin' of Ornellaia, Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia was first introduced with vintage 1997, resulting from the decision to carry out an even more rigid selection during the blending phase of the base wines which give life to Ornellaia. Produced primarily from the younger vineyards, the wine combines the pedigree of the flagship wine with freshness, accessibility and softness together with a structure, balance and intensity typical of the great terroir of the Estate. A very crisp, clean- edged bouquet features emphatic notes of wild berry fruit and sweet violets, with underlying hints of pungent spice and roast espresso bean. The palate is full-volumed with a good weight, yet at the same time displaying elegance and pedigree, with a velvet-smooth, glossy texture and up-front fruit. 2013 Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri DOC Rosso, Italy Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Resto of the week THE changes that our food culture has seen over the past few years are a dou- ble-edged sword. The interest in what goes into food is, on the one hand, some excellent progress in the march away from unhealthy, unrecognizable food we put in our bodies. A concurrently grow- ing interest in the positive influence of exercise is making us if not healthier, at least more aware. On the other hand, finding good food that has not been altered out of recog- nizable shape is both costly and diffi- cult. The truth is that processed foods are easier to make, store and transport, making them cheaper for the consumer. Fresh quality food usually comes at a premium. Which is why high-quality Italian moz- zarella (or the catchy and versatile 'Him' for short) is a welcome addition to the plethora of fast food joints that dot the Sliema front. A small, tastefully decorated establish- ment, its walls are lined with shelves up- on shelves of wines, beer, pasta, sauces, desserts and everything else the good life is made of. But the best thing Him offers doesn't come in packages. In fact, unless you order some to go, it never even sees the inside of a container. Him makes its mozzarella – between 100 and 150 kilos – fresh every day, from frozen buffalo milk shipped in from Naples. It comes in a variety of shapes and sizes; the bite-sized bocconcini, the larger milky spheres to share and the simply divine straccata, which combines shredded mozzarella with panna cream. Each can be eaten at the mozzarella bar, by themselves or in a selection of sand- wiches and salads, or taken out to enjoy at home. Him's appeal comes from the manage- ment's unfaltering focus on quality. The selection of foods and beverages on sale are all artisanal and chosen specifically to complement the mozzarella. Chef Fe- lice Franzese, who is a celebrated somme- lier and teacher aside from being a master chef, has lent his ex- pertise in training ap- prentices and pairing the food and bever- ages on offer, giving the hungry customer (and the lucky re- viewer) something to write home about. And the best part? There is absolutely no cooking, in the traditional sense. Fresh bread and of course the mozzarella are made from scratch on site while everything else comes straight from local sources and is then lovingly put together with the least interference possible. Fast food in the cleanest, healthiest sense. Him has big plans too. This one-of-a- kind concept store is the blueprint for other outlets overseas, including in the directors' native Naples, other areas in Italy and eventually even beyond Euro- pean shores. And it's looking good. On Him's first day of business, the shop saw a steady trickle of curi- ous visitors, no doubt drawn in by the nov- elty of the place and sticking around to ex- plore and try some of the various delicacies on sale. And once they try those tender, ghostly white orbs, they will know the meaning of addiction. Delicious, handmade addiction that needs absolutely nothing – not olive oil, not seasoning – to improve on its fla- vour. And here, I suspect, lies the core of Him's simple but effective business plan. Make something so tasty and moreish that return visits are practically guaran- teed. So far, it seems to be working. hiM 195, The Strand, Gzira. Tel: 27880400 Email: info@himstore.it Web: www.himstore.eu Facebook: facebook.com/ himstoremalta Praise be to hiM!