Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/664438
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 10 APRIL 2016 34 Food Grape Variety: A blend dominated by 95% Sauvignon Blanc with 5% Semillon. Grapes are from vineyards planted on decomposed granite, stony clay soils and rich alluvial soils, at altitudes ranging from 150 - 400m above sea level. A wine with complex flavours ready to drink now. Pale, bright, youthful gold. Concentrated aromas of peaches and tropical fruits with green fig and lime becoming more apparent with time. Steely raciness in the mouth with all the flavour the nose promised and more with some cut grass and herbal notes. Very fresh and crisp. Gorgeous at this youthful stage and ideally partnered with goat cheese, smoked fish, sea food and creamy poultry or veal dishes. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Boschendal '1685' Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Coastal Region, South Africa Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt GOOD restaurants are hard to find. Restau- rants you'd be willing to recommend are even harder to come by. 'Know a good place to eat?' is a question I dread and one which, given my line of work, I face often. Between my terrible memory and a real dearth of acceptable op- tions, my reply is often a blank stare and an apologetic shrug of the shoulders. Because what makes a good restaurant any- way? This slippery question is one we're con- stantly trying to answer at Gourmet Today and the answers are not always the same. I had visited Duo before, several years ago, and before I started writing seriously about food. As the meal took place a long while back, I can't recall all that much about the details – my only memory is a clear recollection of ex- cellent food and impeccable service. When I was assigned to review the restau- rant, I was keen to find out if my vague-but- positive memories held any water. I needn't have worried – my memory is not so bad after all. My guest and I were welcomed to Duo by a conscientious waiter, who would then check in with us regularly throughout the meal. We were seated and took a look at the menu and specials for the day as we enjoyed an aperitif. The options are pretty well balanced between meat and fish, interspersed with some un- expected entries – I can't say I've seen many menus with a velouté on offer. We made our selections and were presented with a sort of minimalist take on bruschetta while we waited, thinly sliced bread toasted to a satisfying crisp and served with a moreish hummus, topped with tiny tomato and onion cubes, like a stripped back salsa. The starters were both delicious and visu- ally impressive. You could tell that whoever made them has a very specific idea of how they wanted these dishes to look. I tucked into a Danish Camembert wrapped in filo pastry; a decadent, melty, irresistible parcel of deliciousness, paired with the counterpoint of forest fruits. The addition of fruit to savoury dishes proved to be a theme during our meal and was used to good effect. In fact, sautéed cherries accompanied my guest's pan-fried foie gras, alongside a beautiful golden brioche. Next up came the pan-fried duck breast for me, and the pork medallions for my guest. The duck was paired with a date and greens saladette, expertly heaped, and strips of man- go – again, a sweet/savoury combination that worked exceedingly well. The duck was crispy on the outside and had a beautiful colour gra- dient inside: a bird well done. The pork came with what I first thought were beetroot rounds but turned out to be blue potatoes, which have a simultaneously familiar and unusual flavour. The meat sat atop a mound of apples, cooked in apple bran- dy. There were sounds of approval from both ends of the table. There is no dessert menu – you'll need to ask your wait what Chef Tonio has prepared on the day. Alternately, you may be able to get a word with the chef himself, as he often emerges from the kitchen to check on his din- ers, a practice I feel more chefs should take on. I had a crème brulee, my go-to choice when it's on the menu, and my guest opted for the lavender panna cotta. The first thing we no- ticed about these dishes was their size. If you weren't full before, these babies will certainly do the trick – a nice change from the smear of ice cream or the single bite of chocolate fondant some other restaurants present you with. The brulee had a proper, crunchy crust to crack through, unleashing the delicate treasure beneath. The lavender panna cotta was a wonderful lilac colour and encircled a rich strawberry reduction for the perfect pairing. A scattering of berries completed the dish. With indoor and outdoor seating, Duo would make for a good experience whatever the weather. Though I didn't get the chance to sample them this time, the formidable cocktail menu looked like lots of fun. So would I recommend Duo? Yes I would, and this time, I'm pretty sure I'll remember it. Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK Duo – an easy recommendation In this line of work we, at Gourmet Today, get asked to 'recommend a good restaurant' all the time. Though we are always on the lookout for new establishments, we like to revisit old favourites too. RACHEL AGIUS heads down to Duo Restaurant in Qawra to refresh her memory and comes back with nothing but praise PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD