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MT 24 July 2016

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 24 JULY 2016 35 Olives The small fruit that gives us ol- ive oil, the lowly olive, is a great source of flavour in Mediterra- nean cooking. However the dif- ferent varieties make for differ- ent flavours. Out of the hundreds of differ- ent varieties of olive tree some are very similar with only DNA fingerprinting separating the types of olive, however some others differ tremendously with fruit varying in size, oil content, taste, chemical characteristics and ripening time among others. When it comes to differences in olives, most people can only say that some are green while others are black. The only differ- ence between a green and a black olive, however is the ripeness of the fruit, where a green olive is actually an unripened fruit. Green olives are usually pit- ted and often stuffed with vari- ous fillings including pimentos, almonds, anchovies, jalapenos, onions or capers, while black olives are more often sold with their pit, though pitted varieties are also available. Cultivated for over 6,000 years the olive is a mark of the Medi- terranean where it typically grows in climates of relatively mild winters and hot dry sum- mers. Straight from the tree the ol- ive is bitter and inedible and requires curing, usually in lye brine or salt. The taste of olives is affected not only by their va- riety but by ripeness and curing time. Heat also causes the ol- ive to go bitter so they are best added to hot dishes at the end of cooking. Olive varieties Cerignola – An enormous ol- ive sold either green or black. When green it has a mild and vegetal flavour though when it turns black the flesh is softer and sweeter and is much easier to pit. Gaeta – A small brownish black olive that can be hard to pit but the flavour, which is reminiscent of nuts, is worth the effort. Kalamata – A plump, purplish black olive that grows in Greece. It is a good option for recipes that include black olives. Manzanilla – This Spanish olive is most available at super- markets. It is generally pitted and stuffed with pimentos or garlic. They are often used in martinis. Moroccan oil-cured – These shrivelled black olives are some- what bitter and best used in cooking rather than for snack- ing. Nicose – A small, purplish brown olive that is grown in southern France. They are chewy and flavourful and like the Gaeta difficult to pit. Sicilian green – These over- sized green olives have a dense, somewhat tart flesh. Fine food of the week The mark of the Mediterranean Food Sean Gravina Ingredients • 1 cup canola oil • 10 large or colossal green pitted olives • 10 large or colossal black pitted olives • ¾ cup plain flour • ½ tsp garlic powder • 1 tsp chili powder • 2 beaten eggs • ¾ cup breadcrumbs • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper METHOD 1. Heat canola oil to 180°C. (Drop a very small piece of bread crumb into the oil if it starts to sizzle the oil is hot enough.) 2. Drain the olives. 3. Mix flour, garlic powder and chili powder together and place in a shallow dish. 4. Pour eggs into another dish, and breadcrumbs with ground black pepper into a third. 5. Roll the olives in the flour, then roll them in the beaten egg and finally roll them in the breadcrumbs. 6. Set on a plate to give the breading a chance to dry and form a crust while the oil heats. 7. When oil is hot, put half the olives into it, being careful not to drop them and splat- ter hot oil. 8. Fry until golden brown, then remove and drain on paper towels. Be sure to tip the oil out of the centre of the olive. Recipe of the week Crispy, fried olives The only difference between a green and a black olive is the ripeness of the fruit, where a green olive is actually an unripened fruit

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