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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 24 JULY 2016 39 Travel Lamu, an African beach destination HAVE you ever wondered how wonderful it would be to be sprawled on a practically deserted sandy beach on a Caribbean island, but then you realise it's simply out of your budget. That's a typi- cal Monday morning for you. The great news is that not all of the world's best beaches are in fancy resorts in the Caribbean and some destinations really are in any back- packer's budget. The island of Lamu in Kenya is one such beach holiday destina- tion. Lamu island is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is about 6,273km2 in area. Ok, so getting there was not the most comfortable of bus rides, I will admit. Eight hours north of the city of Mombasa, only six of which are on a surfaced road. The bumpy dirt track which follows leaves you feel- ing like you've endured a two-hour sand storm. On exiting the bus, it feels like you've just dug your way out of a sand dune, you then have to hop on for a 45-minute ferry trip from the fishing village of Mokowe to the island of Lamu. That is when you realise that the commuting ordeal was well worth it. Viewing the village from the sea at sunset is exquisite, the beauti- ful colours gently reflecting off the white walls of the seaside colonial styled villas. As you hop off onto the quay a swarm of a dozen or so locals crowd you, promising to find you the 'perfect' accommodation – winner gets a possible tip plus a commission from the place of ac- commodation. Most accommodation on this tiny island is generally homey and cheap... that is unless you go to Shela Village in the next bay which is a honeymoon getaway, lined with residences owned by some of Forbe's rich list. If all this travelling has already ex- hausted you, then fear not... there are easier, though a little more pricey ways to get there. Fly into the island of Manda which is across the channel of Lamu. However it is essential that you book way in ad- vance as flights are almost always fully booked. If you're on a really tight budget there is also the option of catching a dhow – a Kenyan raft-like struc- ture with a sail that can't really be classified as a sailing boat – from Mombasa to Lamu. It's free as long as you help crew it, though, and takes about two or three days to get there, depending on the wind, and dhows have been known to capsize and sink in rough seas. For thrill- seekers this may be just the ticket. Talk your way onto a dhow and your raw sailing adventure will be- gin... and possibly end, right there. Transportation on the island is somewhat limited and consists of one ambulance from the 1950s, one jeep and a dozen healthy herds of donkey. The population is most- ly Muslim – a bohemian and care- free group of Muslims, who respect their religion like any other Muslim in the world, that I have ever met. I had the opportunity to breakfast during the holy feast of Ramadan with them and also jumped in rev- elry alongside them as the crescent moon appeared to signal the end of this holy period. This was followed by days of feasting in which Lamu Town was one positive vibe of jam- ming and sharing. After spending a few days on this island, you'll be surprised at the number of activities that are avail- able and realise that you will indeed need quite a bit of time to enjoy the region in tranquillity and in your own time. I would recommend doing some diving on some of the outer reefs of the channel between Manda and Lamu islands. On Manda it- self you'll find mostly private beach bungalows and seaside mansions, however there is one resort that has some authentic, high quality rustic bungalows. You will also find historical ruins in the north of the island, ruins that date back to early Muslim settlements. Check out the impressive baobab trees surround- ing the ruins. Though they are not common on the island, they date back around 1,000 years. For anyone who loves the sea, and sailing boats in general, you must go on a dhow. Though mak- ing the journey from Mombasa to Lamu on one of these is not recom- mended, sailing around the safety of the island with a local crew is an experience not to be missed. These boats are made of carefully chosen wood, cotton and mangrove roots with huge cloths as sails and a tra- peze made out of a plank of wood to keep the boat balanced and stop it from capsizing – unless you fall off the plank, where you will then be in for a full catapulted capsize. Before you get put off this only happens when crews are made up totally of foreigners, as local sailors know their boats and have some serious sailing skills. Local sailors are mostly fishermen who can find their way across the ocean in the darkest of nights and can keep the boat steady in strong winds and high waves. I would suggest renting out a dhow for a day to either go on a fishing trip, or a free roaming sail around the island. If time is press- ing, just go for a sunrise or sunset sail. Other watersports are common around the island, particularly at Shela. Donkey riding is also good fun and twice a year you can wit- ness some competitive races be- tween the three main towns of Lamu. There are also six major dhow races per year, the most exciting and competitive for the locals would be the one on New Year's Day. The island is steeped in tradi- tion, with locals speaking four dif- ferent languages as a result of the various ethnic groups that popu- late the island and different culi- nary and craft skills are passed on from generation to generation. The night life is also very popular in Lamu, where locals need very little reason for a celebration – much like the Maltese! One of the best night life spots would be a floating bar close to the man- grove forest of the Manda island. The people of 'Lamu Tamu' as they say, are generally a very positive and vibrant sort. They are friendly and caring, poor yet rich in their surroundings. How- ever the small island mentality can tend to send some on a peril- ous journey through drugs or al- cohol addiction which the locals have to deal with without proper rehabilitation facilities. All in all the people are very friendly and befriending a local family is quite easy, where if you are lucky you will be able to share fishing expeditions and dining experi- ences that will show you the true culture of Kenya. Lamu Tamu is definitely my pick for a taste of the Caribbean at more affordable prices. Getting there Emirates offer regular flights to Mombasa, Kenya, with a stopover in Dubai. Flights departing from Malta on 30 June and returning on 14 July were priced at €1,554.37, including tax at the time of going to print. From Mombasa you take an eight-bus to the small fishing village on Mowoke and then a 45-minute ferry ride to the island on Lamu.