Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/734031
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 2 OCTOBER 2016 40 Food 2012 Ornellaia L'Incanto - Bolgheri, Italy The Swiss artist John Armleder has been chosen to interpret the character "l'Incanto" (the Enchantment) of the Ornellaia 2012 vintage. As part of the 7th Edition of Ornellaia Vendemmia d'Artista he will create an Art work to be installed at the Estate, the labels for the exclusive edition of large format bottles and a label to present the vintage character in each case of Ornellaia (one bottle in each case of 6x750ml.). Ornellaia 2012 appears a deep ruby, and a remarkably beguiling bouquet boasts rich fruit and spices notes. The palate shows well rounded,full, and generous, with glossy tannins and a complete absence of any roughness. The 2012 lacks none of theproverbial concentration that distinguishes Ornellaia's great vintages, but this vintage adroitly masks that richness behindan expansive, magisterial structure, then concludes with a near- endless finish. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T:2144 4400 RACHEL AGIUS WITH a location like this – perched over Balluta Bay, just across from its impressive neo-Gothic parish church – The Villa al- ready has an advantage. In the hub of Mal- ta's most popular tourist destination and sitting in the shadow of the prestigious Me- ridien hotel, one climbs the limestone stairs with a sense of expectation. Afterwards, one leaves with a feeling of satisfaction. Two terraces (one lounge area, one din- ing area) spread out beneath the building's sandy stonework, offer a lofty lookout over the water, the crowd and the picturesque square with its iconic kiosk. Umbrellas shade patrons in the summer and heaters keep them comfortable on cooler nights, allowing the option to eat outdoors even before the weather warms up. It makes for the perfect place for a spot of people watching. Turning your attention to the menu, you'll recognise a few familiar dishes and some in- teresting twists on old favourites. If you're in the sharing mood, try dishes from both the starters category and the tapas list. The pork belly in a red wine jus was a particu- larly delicious choice, displaying a perfect balance of fat and muscle and sitting in a jus that I admit I surreptitiously indulged in with a crust of bread. The rest of the menu requires a heart- breaking choice; the kind that is both jus- tified and appeased when your dish arrives and when you notice what someone else has ordered. In an effort to sample as broad a range as possible, I selected the chicken su- preme and my dining companion chose the garganelli with beef, while we kept an eye on the other diners' choices and made mental notes. Neither of us was disappointed. The ten- der chicken breast was perched atop a bed of couscous and grilled mixed veg, and was accompanied by a sweet-but-not-too-sweet jus that contrasted nicely with the well- spiced couscous. The garganelli were cooked just right – not a soggy pasta in sight. To say the starter-sized dish was generous would be an understatement but it encouraged the Mediterranean culture of sharing nicely. The beef was slow-cooked, imparting a rich flavour and colour to the dish. The strong flavour overpowered the other elements of the dish somewhat – the mushrooms were a little lost – but the beef itself had such a complex, satisfying taste that nothing seemed missing. Dessert came from a short but impressive- ly varied list. The white chocolate fondant came with the warning that it would take some 15 minutes to prepare as it would be made fresh. Never has a wait been better re- warded. The steaming creation broke open to unleash a magma of white chocolate, a decadent accompaniment to the scoop of ice cream and biscuit crumbs that came with it. Branching out a little, I chose the choco- late mousse, infused with pipe tobacco, and Scotch whiskey ice cream. Being neither a smoker nor a whiskey drinker, my un- educated palate enjoyed both parts of this dish, being just strong enough to evoke the unique scents and flavours without being too overpowering. The Villa offers a carefully-curated selec- tion of dishes that necessitates a second, perhaps even a third visit. Thankfully, park- ing is easy and the view is to die for so it is certainly a sacrifice one would be willing to make. THE VILLA 39, MAIN STREET, ST JULIAN'S TEL:23112273 WEB: WWW.THEVILLAMALTA.COM FACEBOOK: THEVILLAMALTA Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK Difficult decisions that necessitate multiple visits PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD