Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/741600
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 23 OCTOBER 2016 36 Food 2014 Boschendal Shiraz '1685' Stellenbosch, South Africa The grapes originated from high-quality vineyard sites around Stellenbosch, Elgin and the Swartland that were planted on a variety of soils, each specifically selected for its unique contribution to the final wine. Dark berries (cherries, mulberries and plum) and exotic spice on the nose from oak with cool-climate pepper spice. On the palate very generous, deep black fruit and riper vintage fruit expression with pepper spice. Richness and juiciness with a round, integrated fruit core and silky ripe tannins. Shows elegant freshness and length with lingering fruit on the finish. Soft ripe tannins give fullness and richness to the wine, making it exceptionally easy to drink, while still retaining the structure to support at least five years in the bottle. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T:2144 4400 THE first storms have lashed the island and most of us are at least considering putting on a jumper. With winter just around the cor- ner, Barracuda will be serving up dishes from a new menu that's sure to keep the foodies happy this season. It wouldn't be Barracuda without a size- able fish menu. When you're named after one of the most impressive fish in the sea, it would be strange not to focus on the wide variety of ingredients the ocean can produce. Of course, ingredients are nothing without masterful attention to turn them into fully fledged dishes. Chef Andrew Pace has taken on the task with gusto, carefully balancing richness and subtlety in flavour, stark visual contrasts and minute detail to create inspir- ing dishes with plenty to appreciate in every bite. Start with the nori rolls – two seaweed- wrapped creations, stuffed with a melange of fish carpaccio and hiding a hint of truffle beneath the surface. A small dish, the focus here is on unfurling the flavours within and the challenge is to keep each component from outshining the others. On both points, this dish excels. Another captivating dish to start with is the steak tartare. Visually speaking, it's a stun- ner – the rich red of the meat, coupled with the just-cooked egg yolk, it's certainly an eye- catcher. This dish, despite the flair, keeps the flavours simple. Enjoy the complexity of the meat, with only the tiniest hint of citrus acid- ity to distract from the satisfyingly viscous yolk. Taking home the prize for most photogenic dish, the seared scallops with truffle caviar are just dying to be Instagrammed. Chef Pace's expertise really shines through here – scallops are often criminally overcooked but in this dish they are just right, letting their delicate flavours emerge. The truffle caviar adds not just an interesting contrast to the pale molluscs but another element to savour. The truffle sauce is undeniably moreish and was, quite widely, used sparingly, to avoid overwhelming the other flavours. If we're considering dishes architecturally, the black pasta with goose foie gras and speck definitely stood out. A tower of linguine, for- tified with strips of speck and topped with a glistening slab of foie gras, the pasta sat in a superb truffle and goose fat sauce. This is definitely the dish for you if you are hanker- ing after those rich winter flavours that we missed over the hot months. Choosing the main dish can be a chal- lenge at Barracuda. Try the grilled calamari, perched on a blue potato puree, for an inter- esting combination of colours and a sublime collection of flavours, including ginger, lem- on grass and coriander. The perfect scoring and grill marks just remind you how much attention is being paid to your food behind the scenes. The Barbary duck breast, accom- panied by a blueberry and ginger jus, reaches a wonderful compromise between the sa- voury and the sweet. You may be full to bursting at this point but it's no use protesting – there is still room for dessert. Try the triple chocolate mousse with creme cognac for a final, decadent in- dulgence at the end of your meal. You may not want to share. BARACCUDA RESTAURANT 194/195, MAIN STREET, ST JULIAN'S TEL: 21331817 WEB: BARRACUDARESTAURANT.COM FACEBOOK: BARRACUDARESTAURANT Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK The summer seems to have come to an end earlier than usual this year and with it a desire for heartier winter flavours. Barracuda has got you covered with a brand new menu that is perfect for those wintry evenings. RACHEL AGIUS gets a sneak peek. A new season requires a new menu