Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/747633
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 6 NOVEMBER 2016 36 Food R ACHEL AGIUS RESTAURANTS are popping up all over the place and for foodies (and food writers), this means plenty of opportunity to put the young upstarts through their paces. But sometimes, ex- perience trumps novelty and a return to an old favourite gives its own special brand of satisfac- tion. This is exactly what happened the other evening, when my guest and I braved a few persis- tent rain showers to head to the Lord Nelson. Sitting in the shadow of the Mosta Dome, the older foodies might remember this hidden ha- ven from a few years back. Back then it had made a name for it- self that still lingers to this day. Both of us were eager to discov- er if, under new management, it would survive the test of time. The new iteration opened its doors in September, with Chef Christian Cardona leading the kitchen and Etienne Farrugia, with his years of expertise and experience, at the front of the house. It's Etienne we had to thank for the expansive wine list, which included an interesting blend of timeless classics – Ital- ian and French reds – with more adventurous names from Leba- non, South Africa, New Zealand and Germany. On to our food. We sat down and, after the obligatory pre- dinner G&T, perused the menu. The first thing that struck me was the price range, which sat firmly in the 'Reasonable' cat- egory. For a restaurant with such an illustrious reputation, this was promising. We started off with a beetroot salad and the risotto with roasted pumpkin, crème fraîche and thyme. The salad was stunning – a veritable riot of dark purple, delicate pink and sunburst orange, accompa- nied by flecks of colour from the pistachio, ricotta and orange. Wonderful! The symphony of flavours matched the visual ap- peal to a tee. In the risotto I believe I have found the ultimate winter com- fort food – creamy, but not too heavy. I could eat this dish until the leaves return to the trees in April. To follow, my guest ordered the pan-fried duck breast with asparagus, while I had the chicken roulade. The duck had a wonderful gradient to it, just the right combination of crispy out- side and tender pink inside. The white asparagus spears were treated well, spared the horrific (and all too common fate) of be- ing overcooked. The chicken was the perfect texture and despite its simple preparation, offered a delicate, subtle flavour that I had not ex- pected from such a familiar dish. The pancetta and chicken sauce added extra depth with each forkful, as well as that moreish saltiness that any relative of ba- con will impart. We finished off with the lemon crème brûlée and a square of chocolate mousse and praline. The crème brûlée was not what you'd expect it to look like but was all the better for it. The dish was topped with transpar- ent shards of citrus glass and the lemon custard underneath offered a burst of flavour. A puff of meringue and meringue crumbs added another texture to the dish. The chocolate mousse was a chocolate lover's dream. Topped with honeycomb and with a scoop of ice cream by its side, I was thankful it was a rea- sonably sized portion – I don't think I would have been able to resist finishing it off, no matter the consequences. The Lord Nelson has become something of a legend in foodie circles and after our meal, I can confidently say that its reputa- tion remains completely intact. With a well-priced menu and the superb quality of the food, I am very glad this veteran has reopened its doors. Resto of the week New favourites in established places Charles Grech & Co. Ltd. and Tarragon Restaurant, would like to give you the opportunity to meet the 'International Winemaker of the Year' Mr. Neil McGuigan at Tarragon Restaurant On Friday 11 th November 2016 at 20.00h The Pre-Dinner Tasting: Tutorial Tasting Session of three new wines by Neil McGuigan (Classroom style, Tarragon 1 st floor) ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ The Dinner Menu: (Tarragon ground floor & 1 st floor) Four Textures of Prawns 2015 Founder's Series Chardonnay 'Adelaide Hills' McGuigan ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Speciality schiaffoni pasta; Moroccan spiced lamb ragout, Macadamia nuts & spicy Mexican cheese 2013 Founder's Series Shiraz 'Barossa Valley' McGuigan ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Prime Australian top blade steak; rocket and confit tomatoes salad; Parmesan shavings; truffle croquette 2013 Founder's Series Cabernet Sauvignon 'Coonawarra' McGuigan ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Chocolate brownie; chocolate ganache; chocolate soil; aero ice-cream 2011 'Botrytis' Semillon McGuigan Acqua Panna & San Pellegrino Waters / Coffee Reservation on 2157 3759 ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ ∞ Price € 60 LORD NELSON 280, MAIN STREET, MOSTA. TEL: 79432590 WEB: www.thelordnelsonrestaurant.com FACEBOOK: thelordnelsonrestaurant