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MT 8 January 2017

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 8 JANUARY 2017 34 Food RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR COMING soon. Two words that have become synonymous with Fat Louie's over the last year or two. But is the wait finally over? Over the last few weeks Facebook has been flush with smoked ribs, brisket, pulled pork and aged beef burgers as hap- py customers have finally had the opportunity to dig into Fat Louie's creations. Following a two-year teaser campaign, Fat Louie's have finally opened their doors to the public af- ter a few days of soft opening before Christmas, while they found their feet and put the finishing touches on their menu. But what has taken them so long? Many say that it just took a while for them to get their permits in place and this was partly true as their cooking techniques are not used anywhere else on the island, so standards had to be put in place. What you may not know is that this has been a steep learning curve and the two brothers – who also run New York Best – have been using this time to research a product that has not been delivered on this island yet. Fat Louie's is a smokehouse, which means their meats are slow- cooked in a smoker for 12 hours to produce a tender and succulent meat unparalleled at any other res- taurant in which I have set foot on the island. Sourcing the meat has also been problematic. The Diacono brothers are particularly fussy about where their meat comes from – where it was born, what it ate, how old it was when it was killed, as all of these f a c - tors affect the quality of the product that they serve to their customers. European beef tends to be leaner as Europe- ans have always demanded leaner beef. On the other side of the pond – in the USA and South America, where smoking meat is more com- mon – beef has a higher fat content and lends itself better to smoking. They have eventually found the right raw materials from a number of different suppliers, have all the paperwork in order and are ready to finally deliver. Working in food media has its perks and that's what got me a tast- ing table at the much-anticipated Fat Louie's just a few days before Christmas. The restaurant is just about ready, though when I met Tommy Diacono he was order- ing some final decorations. The décor is cool and fresh; white subway tiles – some of which are cracked, huge bones in blue neon lights, which give the place a cool glow and a bull's skull hangs from one of the walls. Expectations – both from social media posts and the initial im- pression when walking in – are high. The menu, though not yet finalised, is on a board and includes short beef rib, brisket, pulled pork and aged beef burgers served with marrow butter. But I can also see some chicken thighs brining on the counter. As I take a walk around the kitchen, Nicholas Diacono shows me the smoker with four slabs of brisket slowly being transformed into tonight's dinner. For now they are still experimenting to see what works – and what their customers like. I had the brisket for lunch. Soft, succulent and, for want of a bet- ter word, just juicy! This is where I can, hand on heart, say that it was worth the wait. This is where the Fat Louie's team really excels. But they would not be satisfied simply serving a good slab of meat. The sides on the menu have been care- fully selected to complement the meal perfectly. Fries – parboiled and triple-fried, have a crunchy outside with a soft fluffy inside. You only get a few of these chunky chips but boy are they worth it. Mashed potato is creamy and more buttery than any I've ever eaten. I used them as dip for my chips. Too much? Don't knock it till you try it. And the veg- gies – pickles and slaw – that are sharp to cut through all that fat. The combination is superb. This kind of meal begs something incredible to drink and with a fully stocked bar including some inter- esting brands of whiskies, gins and vodkas as well as a resident bartend- er there are promises of cocktails that will be served with as much care and attention as your brisket. After such a long wait, and a Christmas period that was fully booked the moment they an- nounced their soft opening by res- ervation only, Fat Louie's has finally settled into the routine of serving the island's best smoked meat. This has been the world's longest fore- play, but boy is it worth it! Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK Fat Louie's opens its doors… finally! FAT LOUIE'S Paceville Street, St Julian's Tel: 27454582 Facebook: Fat-Louies 2010 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni Arnaldo Caprai, Umbria - Italy The color is ruby red very deep and hard to see through with shades of garnet.. The bouquet is intense with notes of mature fruits and spices. The taste is smooth, persistent with a long finish rich of fruits and spices one more time. The Caprai winery and its wines have received several awards: Winery of the Year, the European Winery of the Year, Sagrantino recived "Tre Bicchieri" and the "Cinque Grappoli" award. Arnaldo Caprai is the most famous among the producers of Sagrantino di Montefalco, a red wine with a strong and elegant taste. The vineyards grow, for over four hundred years, only in the territories around Montefalco. The company plays a meticulous work in of quality, researching and testing new agricultural and winemaking techniques, to spread of the culture and tradition of the territory. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T:2144 4400

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