Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/779073
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 29 JANUARY 2017 34 Food WALKING through the hustle and bustle of Paceville late on a Friday night, I couldn't help but notice the horde of people hud- dled outside what looked remark- ably like a 1920's barbershop. I made my way carefully through the crowd of cheerful patrons and was greeted at the door by Mat- thew D'Emanuele, James Stanton and George Adade, the three men behind the ingenious bar. Before I could even get a hello out, I was asked what my favourite drink was. Within minutes, head mixologist Beppe Volpe brought over a perfectly executed rose- mary and hibiscus flower-infused gin. Intrigued and slightly buzzed with my drink in hand, I was itch- ing to delve into the mind of one of the creators and learn the story behind The Thirsty Barber. Matthew walked me through the creative process as he outlined his initial research methods. He explained how Paceville had be- come, and maybe always had been a hub for 17-year-old kids, eager to down as many vodka Red Bull shots as humanly possible. Matthew and James' eureka mo- ment came about when he real- ised that he and his friends (who are just a tad older than 17) do everything in their power to avoid Paceville, especially on weekends. Pinning his friends' reluctance down to the age profile of the ma- jority of Paceville-goers and the types of drinks being offered, a clear image formed in their minds. Their mission was straightfor- ward: they wanted to create a fun and inviting space, free from shot-downing teens and cheap vodka for over 21-year-olds to get together, kick back after a day of work and sip on a Peaky Blinder. Matthew clarifies that it is not a lack of decent bars in Paceville that led to the creation of The Thirsty Barber – he assures me that there are plenty of great bars in the area – rather the lack of a venue catering to the needs of the somewhat older crowd. Visiting the fruit of their labour just four months after they opened their doors and the Thirsty Barber is full to the brim and then some, with people often spilling out into the street, almost every weekend. Matthew claims that the secret to the bars' success is simple: con- sistency. An example of this can be seen in the super strict 21+ only policy, which ensures that at any given time, customers are surrounded by a slightly more mature crowd, just as promised. Matthew has always envisaged a cabaret, theatrical-themed bar. Inspired by the prohibition era, they strived to replicate the idea of the 'speakeasies', top-secret businesses that sold alcoholic beverages under false pretenses. In fact, the façade of the bar is de- signed to look exactly like a bar- ber's shop, complete with a 1920's style barber's chair and pole. They've done this so convinc- ingly that Matthew attests that between two and three people per day enter The Thirsty Barber ask- ing for a fresh cut. The theme is certainly not lim- ited to the entrance, however, as it is integrated seamlessly into every aspect of the bar, ranging from the waitresses' 1920-style flapper uniforms to the cocktail menus designed to look just like they did at the time. The overriding contrast be- tween The Thirsty Barber and virtually any other bar or pub on the island is their team of quali- fied and experienced mixologists. Peter, one of the few to make the cut, explained how bartenders are trained to make drinks that have been done a thousand times. Mix- ologists, on the other hand, are trained to think outside the box and find new and exciting ways to make masterful creations out of commonly found drinks. In the eyes of a mixologist, a Whiskey Sour is never just a Whiskey Sour but rather, a blank canvas; an op- portunity to experiment with in- gredients, fruits, herbs and other elements to create a drink that tells a story and let me tell you, we are listening. The Thirsty Barber team is not known to shy away from flavour and self-expression and their cocktail menu is indicative of that. It is comprised of every- thing you've ever dreamed of with a surprising twist at every turn. I have just one piece of advice: tread carefully; because I guaran- tee you're going to be tempted to order one of everything. If the first four months of busi- ness are anything to go by, The Thirsty Barber's future is blin- dingly bright. Matthew and his partners are ecstatic with the pub- lic's overwhelmingly positive re- actions but they have a few more tricks up their sleeve. Within the next few months, they will be looking to install another bar and extend their bar staff to a total of eight mixologists to be able to de- liver their divine white chocolate vodkas faster and with more ease. They also envisage branching out and serving gourmet food to go alongside their high-end cocktails as an attempt to replace the inevitable 4am euro burger we are all guilty of ordering. If you're over the age of 21 and looking for a novel and exciting experience, look no further than The Thirsty Barber. If you're on the hunt for a cheap, watered down, run of the mill gin and ton- ic, keep walking. Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK Grown up cocktails and grown up conversation The Thirsty Barber Ball Street, Paceville Tel: 79440909 FB: thethirstybarber The Frescobaldi family selected Vecchie Viti to continue the tradition of reserving a private- collection wine for each new-born family member. This wine, sourced from the oldest, and most deeply-rooted vines at the Castello Nipozzano, displays superb complexity and harmony of all its components; it matures 24 months in large oak botti, in accord with venerable Tuscan tradition. Nipozzano Vecchie Viti 2012 is an intense ruby red that introduces a bouquet of floral bergamot and orange balanced with spiced scents of coffee powder and jasmine tea. When tasted it is balanced, complex, fresh and persistent. The tannins blend well with the body resulting in a wine that is silky and harmonious. The wine's acidic component is noteworthy and joins elegantly with the alcoholic content. Raspberries and a light liquorice note joined by juniper berries leave a distinctive finish. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T:2144 4400 Nipozzano Vecchie Viti 2012 Frescobaldi, Toscana The Thirsty Barber opened its doors just four months ago to rave reviews. Anyone avoiding the place because it is in the heart of Paceville should think again as this place has a strict over-21 door policy. With grown up conversation and grown up cocktails there is much to look forward to at this brand new bar. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE checks it out