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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 2 APRIL 2017 34 Food I almost missed Rebekah's when I drove past. Situated in a quiet, residential Mellieha road, only a small sign and a menu in an il- luminated display case indicated that the otherwise unassuming stone façade was the place I was looking for. Stepping inside how- ever is a delight, even before you catch a whiff of the food – the res- taurant is actually a old-style Mal- tese farmhouse, complete with war shelter (which now serves as a wine cellar), rough stone walls and a courtyard, which is where we chose to sit when we visited. Weather like ours makes outdoor dining an almost year-round pos- sibility and we figured we'd take advantage of a balmy evening to enjoy our meal al fresco. While the food was excellent (more on that in a little bit), I can- not overstate the quality of the service. We were offered drinks soon after being seated by our smartly dressed maître d', who took good care of us throughout the night. It was heartening to hear their list of gins, when it's usually a matter of 'one or the other' in most restaurants. We picked our poison and perused the menu. A handful of specials comple- mented the concise menu, in- cluding different fresh fish and meat dishes. The meal began with a wonderfully delicate amouse bouche – a salmon mousse with celery puree, arranged artfully across our plates. Quickly pol- ished off, we waited eagerly for our starters. A beetroot and feta creation arrived for me, decorated with rounds of crunchy puff pas- try and what looked like a brush- stroke of bright purple beet juice. An unusual combination but one that works, combining the sharp- ness of the cheese with the chewy freshness of the beetroot and making for a wonderful mix of flavours. As much as I enjoyed my first dish, I must admit I was floored by the main. Sliding a knife into my beef ribeye, it was hard to ig- nore the fact that the meat just gave way beneath the cutlery. It was cooked to perfection – me- dium rare, with a perfect gradient, a gentle crunch on the outside followed by a melt-in-the-mouth centre and a complete absence of that somewhat off-putting deluge of blood. Sharing the plate was a single truffle raviolo, stacked atop sautéed mushrooms and sitting beside a delicious mushroom pu- ree and truffle jus. Seeing as how the dish left me speechless (in a good way), I'll let my description stop here. I cannot hope to do it justice. My guest's fish elicited a similar reaction, thanks to its tender flesh and simple prepara- tion, which served to highlight its delicate flavours. There was not a word of criticism between us. We shared some mixed, grilled vegetables and roast potatoes – simple but satisfying sides to the main events. My guest decided against des- sert, a decision that always leaves me out of a spoonful or two of my own. Luckily, there was plenty to share. I chose the pannacotta with peach compote and a crunchy honeycomb biscuit. The subtle, light flavour of the pannacotta was offset nicely by the com- pote, which was not overly sweet but had a pleasant tartness that played nicely with the sweeter biscuit. Like Rebekah's itself, this dessert was an all-rounder. With service that never falters, a reasonably priced menu and, in my experience, flawless execution of both familiar and innovative dishes, this hidden treasure really has everything going for it. So en- joy the drive up north – when it ends with pulling a chair up to a table in Rebekah's, it is certainly worth the trip. Resto of the week Nipozzano 2013 is a brilliant, clear scarlet red. The nose is complex and intense with prevalent red fruit scents of bitter cherry, plum, and raspberry followed by spiced and toasted notes of pepper, nutmeg and coffee. In the mouth the wine is warm, soft and significantly fresh. Nipozzano 2013 is elegant and enveloping, with fine tannins that are well balanced in the wine's structure and a long and persistent fruity finish. The Wine Advocate 91 points - "The 2013 Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano is a soft and supple red wine that proudly displays its winemaking pedigree. There are no rough edges here. Instead, this wine offers a seamless link of red cherry, spice and toasted nut aromas. The mouthfeel is on the lean side, but the wine is immediately approachable and easy to pair with any kind of grilled meat dish." James Suckling 91 points - "Very tight and refined with a linear structure and precision. Medium body, fine tannins and plenty of berry, tea leaf and lemon rind flavors. Pretty and focused. Delicious as always. " Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2013 A meal worth travelling for at Rebekah's Rebekah's Restaurant Rebekah's Restaurant 12, Triq it-Tgham, Mellieha Tel:21521145 www.rebekahs.com.mt Facebook: rebekahsrestaurant The phrase 'hidden gem', when referring to restaurants, is horribly overused. However none was created better for Rebekah's, hidden away in residential area of Mellieha, RACHEL AGIUS discovers it is well worth a visit. WINE OF THE WEEK