Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/846769
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 9 JULY 2017 34 Food AMY MICALLEF DECESARE NOW that summer is in full swing, dining by the sea is an ab- solute must. But finding a spot that pays attention to good food rather than just selling their loca- tion at a premium is a tough job. In the stifling heat I made my way across the busy street, making a beeline for Naar, yearning for an ice-cold glass of water. Just under two minutes later, I was in heaven; with an ice-cold cocktail in hand (what an up- grade), sitting contentedly in the beautiful terraced area, overlook- ing Balluta Bay. Just a few metres away was an acoustic guitar play- er strumming live, completing the perfect picture that was my Satur- day afternoon. The overall positive vibe of the place was complemented, yet again, by the sublime food and friendly service. But I'm getting ahead of myself… To make things interesting, my guest and I left our orders in the capable hands of Naar's staff. It was almost as though the waiter and I had some sort of tel- epathic connection because the second I took the last sip of my Long Island Iced Tea, he brought over a large dish of 'oriental mus- sels'. I would usually turn my nose up at the very thought of mussels, but my guest wouldn't take no for an answer and before I knew it I was thrown head-first into a world I had always made my mis- sion to avoid. I can't believe I'm saying this… but they were deli- cious. Sautéed in an Asian blend of coconut milk, lemon grass and ginger, the overly 'fishy' taste that some of us aren't too fond of was virtually non-existent. They went down an absolute treat. What can I say? I've been converted. First up: the sea bass fennel fil- let. If like me, you're exceptionally lazy and the last thing you feel like doing on a Saturday afternoon is cleaning a fish, don't fret, the dish is hassle free. Cut and cleaned, perfectly seasoned and set on a deliciously simple fennel puree, I guarantee you won't be disap- pointed. Next: The Moroccan lamb tagine. Read this part slowly… braised lamb shank, set on a deli- cious Moroccan spiced chickpea ragu. I know what you're think- ing, because I was thinking it too. Lamb tagine is possibly the last thing you would expect to be on Naar's menu. In spite of this, it was our personal favourite. Be- sides it being absolutely divine in all its tender glory, the presenta- tion was good fun too. Served in a traditional clay tagine pot, I cannot stress how many times we placed the lid on and off to get that perfect mid-motion shot. You know what they say – simple things please simple minds! Just a little aside, both dishes were served with home made wedges and vegetables, both of which were utter perfection. You'd be surprised what a chal- lenge it is to find really good side dishes as, if we're being honest, too many restaurants tend to dis- regard the side dishes and only pay close attention to the mains. Naar throws this idea out of the window completely as they take every aspect into consideration, ensuring every bite is as satisfying as the last, whether you're digging into a crispy potato wedge or the sea bass itself. We're not done yet! In case you're yearning for a 'light' snack and believe you me, we were not, I would recommend the South- westerner. Pulled pork brisket, complete with all the extras, in- cluding onion jam, Applewood cheese and baby spinach, served on a toasted ftira. I commend an- yone who gets through this ftira and can still call it a 'snack'. Are you tired yet? At this point I was in physical pain but did I motion the waiter away when he brought over the desserts? No I did not. Without an iota of shame, we proceeded to order the brownie, lemon tart and car- rot and walnut cake, all of which were home made. The brownie was delectable and rich, ideal for the chocolate lovers, and slightly less ideal for the weight watchers. The lemon tart was the perfect addition to the meal – not too sweet, not too tart, the pastry with just the perfect amount of flake. My personal favourite, the carrot and walnut, brought back pleasant memories of my youth, when my mother would present me with freshly made carrot cake whilst I was studying. This only happened once but it's a pleasant memory nonetheless. And with a final bow, mission Naar was complete. Walking back out into the sunlight, I found my- self mentally listing Naar as my new favourite restaurant. Not on- ly is the food second to none and inclusive of tons of vegan, lactose- free and gluten-free options, made fresh to order, it is the ideal place to unwind and spend your after- noon in the sun. Feel like a 'light' snack and a fresh dip in the open sea? Naar's got you covered. More in the mood for a three-course meal followed by a walk along the Sliema front to burn those extra calories? Naar's got you covered. Looking to plan a private party for 100 guests, complete with food and entertainment? Guess who's got you covered? That's right, Naar. Resto of the week An abundance of tropical fruit flavours on the nose with hints of lime and green fig. The palate finds a melange of yellow and green tropical fruits with hints of citrus. A soft, full-bodied wine with a harmonious palate and coated acidity adding to the zesty, mineral finish. Good balance between acidity and structure, with a persistent lingering length. Grapes were sourced from cooler vineyards in the Coastal Region, mostly on higher altitude (150–400m) sites or very close to the ocean. Being exposed to cool afternoon sea breezes aided the accumulation of beautiful, expressive varietal flavours in the berries and good natural acidity. Vineyards planted on different soil types, mostly weathered granite and shale soils with high water retention properties, were selected, resulting in wines with a bigger structure and mouthfeel. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Boschendal Sauvignon Blanc 2016 South Africa WINE OF THE WEEK Summer dining at the water's edge Naar Restobar George Borg Olivier Street St Julian's Tel: 21373412 Web: www.naarmalta.com Facebook: NaarMalta