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35 PARMEGGIANO Reggiano takes the spotlight when it comes to Italian hard cheeses, with its crystally textures and deep flavours. However it is not the only hard cheese worth shouting about that comes out of Italy. Pecorino cheeses refer to all Italian cheeses made with ewe's milk, hence its name – pecora being the Italian word for sheep. Though Pecorino is made throughout Italy and Sic- ily, there are numerous varieties that differ in flavour and texture according to the region it is pro- duced in. The most famous variety out- side of Italy is the Pecorino Romano. DOP protected, it is mostly manufactured on the is- land of Sardinia, though produc- tion is also allowed in Lazio and the Tuscan province of Grosseto. Other popular protected varie- ties are the Pecorino Sardo, from Sardinia, Pecorino Toscano and the Pecorino Siciliano. All come in a variety of styles depending on how long they have been aged. The more ma- tured cheeses, referred to as sta- gionato ("seasoned" or "aged"), are harder but still crumbly in texture and have decidedly but- tery and nutty flavours. The oth- er two types semi-stagionato and fresco have a softer texture and milder cream and milk tastes. In Southern Italy, it is tradi- tional to add black peppercorns or red chilli flakes to Pecorino, producing what is called Pecori- no Pepato – literally, "peppered Pecorino". Today many other additions are made, for example walnuts or rucola or tiny pieces of white or black truffle. In Sardinia, the larvae of the cheese fly are intentionally in- troduced into Pecorino Sardo to produce a local delicacy called casu marzu. Fiore Sardo is a va- riety of pecorino from Sardinia, made using a rennet derived from wild flowers. A good Pecorino Stagionato is often the finish of a meal, served with pears and walnuts or drizzled with strong chest- nut honey. It is also often used to finish pasta dishes, and used to be the natural choice for most Italian regions from Umbria down to Sicily, rather than the more expensive Parmeggiano Reggiano. It is still preferred to- day for the pasta dishes of Rome and Lazio, particularly in pasta all'amatriciana, pasta cacio and pasta alla Gricia. The aromatic Pecorino delle Crete Senesi comes from Tus- cany, and is coated with tomato paste; Pecorino Toscano is a milder, tomato-less version. Pecorino Siciliano Canestrato comes in various forms, including the fresh Tuma, a half-ripened version (called Primusali), and a mature one suitable for grating. Pecorino dolce is a lightly salted example of the cheese, and is usu- ally eaten fresh. maltatoday, SUNDAY, 6 AUGUST 2017 Fine food of the week Food Ingredients • 2 zucchini • 1 fresh gbejna • 1 clove garlic • ½ lemon, juice only • Parsley, finely chopped • Olive oil • Handful walnuts • Handful mint • Pecorino shavings Method 1. Slice the zucchini lengthways and cook on a hot griddle pan until slightly charred. 2. Place on a serving plate straight away. 3. Mix the minced garlic with the lemon juice, parsley and some olive oil. 4. Tear the gbejna and place over the top of the zucchini. 5. Top with the garlic lemon dressing. 6. Crush the walnuts over the zucchini and cheese and add the mint. 7. Add the pecorino shavings and serve. Recipe of the week Zucchini and gbejna salad Pecorino – Buttery sheep's cheese from Italy Pecorino Sardo, from the island of Sardinia, has buttery, nutty flavours and is a great addition to salads and pasta dishes