Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/869387
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 3 SEPTEMBER 2017 34 Food A short detour from the hustle and bustle of the popular Repub- lic Street onto Melita Street in Valletta, among the beautifully traditional baroque buildings, is the L'Artiglio Ristorante. Newly opened in January. Open for lighter lunches from midday until 2.30pm and even- ing meals from 7 until 10.30, L'Artiglio welcomes passers-by and bookings alike, however, booking is recommended where possible, particularly at the week- end. Greeted by restaurant manager Stefano and shown to my table I immediately start to understand why this restaurant stands out from other Mediterranean ones. They truly create a dining expe- rience with a difference. With over 10 years' experience, Stefano heads a young and enthusiastic front of house team who show an understandable pride in their work. A spotless environment with an open kitchen where din- ers can enjoy the view of the chefs preparing meals and adding that final artistic touch before dishes are served to the table. Introduced to their eclectic menu of the day I see that each dish is based on local foods pres- ently in season. It is here learnt why each day a different menu is presented to customers. The very core of their menu ensures ultimate freshness and great taste combinations. I enjoy a serving of traditional bigilla with Maltese bread while I peruse the menu with staff on hand to ex- plain to me any of the dishes. It was a fantastic opportunity to meet head chef Janine. We chat about each dish and I ask for any recommendations. Janine's re- sponse, in one sentence, showed the passion put into every dish created. "If there was something I wouldn't recommend, it wouldn't be on the menu." Janine's first ca- tering role was at the tender age of 16 and she always knew her true love was food. Her chef team are also young, Janine welcomes ide- as and together they create, try, adapt and produce dishes based on complementary tastes, fresh ingredients, textures and atten- tion to detail. Menu choices made, I am treat- ed to a coconut milk and prawn bisque mousse amuse bouche, delicately setting my palate for the courses to follow. I choose a starter of baked Camembert, fla- voured with rosemary and gar- lic, topped with delectable onion relish and served with toasted bite-sized Maltese bread, shortly followed by tasters of their char- grilled octopus, acquerello rice, nero di sepia and saffron aioli and pea soup topped with crispy ham hock, comprising vibrant colours of black, green and yellow be- tween them. Next up was a crudité, a trio of tartare – tuna and avocado, salmon and wakame, seabass and tobiko, served with soy and citrus dressings. Deliciously mingled flavours, colours and textures in- cluding the gentle popping sensa- tion of the tobiko. I enjoy a main of Barbary duck breast with peach and mint puree and grilled fennel. I decline dessert. Each one is as tempting as the other courses, however I can't possibly man- age another bite. Luckily I know I will be returning to L'Artiglio and leaving space to try their Earl Grey crème brûlée will certainly be on my 'to do' list. Resto of the week PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES BIANCHI Louis Moreau was born from the passion of a family settled in Chablis since 1814. As early as the late 19th century, the love of this family for great wines led to the purchase of plots in Grands Crus and Premiers Crus. The most prestigious of its wines is the monopole Chablis Grand Cru Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos, acquired by the Moreau family in 1904. Louis Moreau, who has been heading the domaine since 1994, produces wines with a unique style, combining minerality, fineness, elegance and purity. Chablis 2016 is fruity and vivid with a nice golden color and a floral nose with notes of white fruits (apple, pear) typical of Chablis terroir. It shows a nice gustatory attack with mineral and chalky hints and a perfect balance in mouth. It is a very fine and fresh wine that will nicely pair with smoked salmon and blinis or a steamed cod. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Chablis 2016 Louis Moreau, France Exquisite culinary combinations at L'Artiglio L'Artiglio Ristorante 62, Melita Street Valletta Tel: 2247 6601 Web: www.lartiglio.com.mt Email: info@lartiglio.com.mt WINE OF THE WEEK Perhaps the city with most promising new restaurants is Valletta. But what distinguishes one from another? What makes one individual restaurant worth your lunch money? NICOLA COLLINS heads down to the newly opened L'Artiglio Ristorante to see what the buzz is all about