Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/884700
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 8 OCTOBER 2017 34 Food ON the face of it, the slick, shiny new SmartCity is very far removed from the quaint fishing village of Marsaxlokk. A modern concrete metropolis seems to have little in common with a sun-drenched lo- cale, steeped in history and tradi- tion, save perhaps their proximity to the sea. But there is a thread that con- nects the two – a family passionate about offering their diners quality produce and an unforgettable ex- perience. I sat down with Stephan Schiavone to find out more. Tartarun came first. Stephan's parents opened the restaurant in 2009, helped by Stephan and his brother, chef James. It was a natu- ral progression for them. The fam- ily had been involved in fishing and the industry for many years and, living in Marsaxlokk, opening a fish restaurant seemed like a no-brain- er. The focus was and remains pre- paring the freshest fish and seafood possible in a way that respected the ingredients and really brought out their potential. The catch of the day remains a customer favourite at Tartarun, according to James, probably because it's hard to walk past the display of freshly caught fish without wanting to try it. The prawn carpaccio is also a crowd pleaser, says Stephan, as are the crab, langoustine and prawn tortel- lacci. At its sister restaurant, Wejla by Tartarun, fish has certainly re- mained an important element of the menu but it shares the limelight with a formidable grill selection. Here customers have gone mad for the bouillabaisse and the lobster agnolotti, as well as the exceptional Côte de veau, a veal rib on the bone. Wejla is the somewhat slicker little sister in the family. Wejla's mini- malist and clean design contrasts with Tartarun's more rustic and traditional interiors, which remain closely connecting to the heritage and history of both the Schiavone family and of the village itself. Stephan tells me the SmartCity location has plenty going for it – large windows flood the place in natural light, ample outdoor seat- ing makes it an excellent summer venue and the fact that the road and all its traffic are a way off makes it easier to enjoy the expansive view of the sea while also being family– friendly. What Stephan, who runs Wejla full time now, was going for was a fish and grill restaurant that didn't scream traditional while still being comfortable and friendly. Though they have their own very individual personalities, Tartarun and Wejla share some solid core values. The first is a focus on top- notch, seasonal ingredients. This is absolutely non-negotiable. Service is similarly sacrosanct to both – at- tentive staff and white linens are proof of this. Creativity is another important element these two sisters share – the room to explore and tweak and modify ingredients in out-of- the-ordinary ways means custom- ers can try familiar ingredients prepared in new and unusual ways. Both revamp their menus regularly, giving new dishes their chance to shine. The two also work in tandem when it comes to supporting their communities. Stephan explains how SmartCity, despite its detrac- tors, has brought commerce and tourism to southern villages that never quite recovered from the fall of the Jerma Palace hotel. Tartarun and other restaurants in the south stand to gain from the success of SmartCity, while Wejla too benefits by means of the reignited interest in fine dining close by. Everybody wins. At the end of the day though, it's the customer who really gets the prize. Tartarun and Wejla have committed themselves to serv- ing up some spectacular dishes, whether the main ingredients have fins or hooves. Stephan tells me he has many exciting ideas for We- jla in the pipeline, including a set surf'n'turf menu that pairs fish and meat in innovative and mouthwa- tering ways. There are big things ahead and Wejla by Tartarun is making sure to serve them up with its own unique style. Resto of the week More usually seen in Orvieto, the Grechetto grape is often blended with other grapes to provide structure and nuttiness. This wine is produced in Umbria from 100% Grechetto to make this Colli Martani DOC - and it is a great example, coming from Arnaldo Caprai, considered to be one of the top Grechetto producers. This is a complex wine despite being unoaked; lots of fruit aromas and flavours combine with minerality. On the nose the minerality is evident as the smell of wet pebbles but the citrus and more exotic fruit aromas dominate. There are citrus, nectarine and peach flavours on the palate with a hint of almond. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 More usually seen in Orvieto, the Grechetto grape is often blended with other grapes to provide structure and nuttiness. This wine is produced in Martani DOC - and it is a great example, coming from Arnaldo Caprai, considered to be one of the top Grechetto producers. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 2016 Colli Martani Grechetto Grecante Arnaldo Caprai, Umbria Wejla, Tartarun's slick little sister Wejla by Tartarun SmartCity, Triq Santu Rokku Kalkara Tel: 79258177 Facebook: wejla WINE OF THE WEEK Tartarun in Marsaxlokk has a reputation for delivering the very best in dining experiences in the south. Her little sister Wejla, at SmartCity, is walking in her footsteps but taking on a little character of her own.