Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/1547312
9 maltatoday | SUNDAY • 25 OCTOBER 2026 FEATURE contributing 10% of Malta's GDP crowds of Paceville, although you might not notice while walking through. From about 9pm to 4am, the area benefits from the con- stant presence of police, the Armed Forces, and emergency medical personnel. Hell, there's even police horses. Maybe I should interview one. Paceville has its own permanent policing team, but according to officers, the sheer number of people visiting the entertain- ment district means additional resources are regularly brought in from across Malta. According to police estimates, Paceville attracts between 10,000 and 12,000 people on busy nights, with the figure rising to be- tween 15,000 and 18,000 during the sum- mer months. Paceville has five police inspectors, com- pared with the two or three typically as- signed to other districts. An attempt to introduce a sixth was unsuccessful, leav- ing the existing team with a demanding caseload. On the weekends, the team is reinforced by officers from other districts, as well as members of the Rapid Interven- tion Unit (RIU), fully armed and dressed in black, standing in a corner across club doors. A man, visibly wasted, walked up to an of- ficer for a photo. He said he wanted to show his mother back home. "Not while I'm on duty," the officer re- plied. "Maybe try the RIU." "Do they have guns?" the tourist asked, with a smile on his face. The officer placed his hand on the man's shoulder: "We don't need guns here." Police also point out that Paceville's re- ported crime rate is approximately double the national average, although they attrib- ute part of this to the area's unusual pop- ulation dynamics, with large numbers of tourists and other visitors moving through the district. The operation relies on a mobile police station, positioned near where the former Burger King restaurant stood. Rather than transporting every person re- quiring police attention back to the station, the mobile unit allows officers to handle certain procedures on site, including those relating to arrests. It also serves as a point of assistance for the public, offering a safe space where people can approach officers for help, files a report and even charge their mobile phones. During our visit, the arrival of AFM sol- diers was enough to prompt some of those gathered near the beach to begin leaving. "Policía, policía," I heard a man mutter in Spanish under his breath in his friend's ear, all the while chewing the inside of his mouth. The pair got up and walked away. Paceville's medical emergencies But perhaps one of the most pressing challenges facing the Paceville operation is the demand for medical assistance. According to police, busy summer week- ends can see an average of six to eight ambulance call-outs per night, frequently involving people suffering the effects of ex- cessive alcohol consumption. Officers say they have been pushing for a permanent medical presence in Paceville for years, arguing that having medical per- sonnel stationed in the area would allow for a more immediate response to emergencies. However, establishing such a service would require considerable resources, and the proposal has yet to materialise. The need for medical assistance is evident during our patrol. At the rocky beach near St George's Bay, we encounter an ambu- lance attending to an intoxicated individual. "Only the first of the night," an officer re- marked. Failed to get lucky by 4am? Try St George's Bay The police might leave, but the party doesn't end when clubs close their doors at 4am. Instead of heading to bed, party-goers stumble down the paved staircase and de- scend upon the shores of St George's Bay. Without police presence, this was probably the first time I felt unsafe throughout the night. With more than enough liquor to go around, the drinking continues well in- to the morning, until the rising sun burns your eyes and sends you crawling back to your hotel room up the road. And, if you're lucky, you won't be alone. That, it seems, is part of the appeal. For those whose romantic pursuits inside the clubs proved unsuccessful, St George's Bay offers one last chance. Strangers ap- proach strangers, conversations are struck, and some disappear together into the early hours. Sometimes, you'll read about it in a court report a week later. Before 4am, however, the bay is patrolled by members of the Armed Forces and mounted police officers, whose horses are quite difficult to miss. Initially, I assumed their presence was intended to intimidate troublemakers, but officers explained the animals actually have a calming effect on the crowds. And, if you're tempted for a late-night swim, make sure not to think about the common sewage leaks into the beach. This is another spot best navigated without looking down. The price of hating Paceville Beyond the garbage, the rats, the spiked drinks and Pitbull, Paceville is an economic powerhouse. During our patrol, police of- ficers claimed that this small corner of St Julian's contributes around 10% of Malta's GDP. Paceville, they explained, is a vital part of Malta's economy, attracting tourists, in- vestment and new business opportunities. Its economic influence extends well be- yond the entertainment district itself, with the growth of short-let apartments and other businesses spilling into surrounding areas. And that's the thing. Paceville is no longer just a collection of bars and clubs. It has evolved into a district increasingly dominated by hotels, restaurants, gaming establishments, and shopping centres, all contributing to its changing identity. That night, or rather, that morning, I went home smelling of cigarettes, without a thought left in my brain except I hate Pace- ville. But 10% of Malta's GDP and 18,000 revellers is a lot to simply throw away.

