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37 maltatoday, SUNDAY, 27 OCTOBER 2013 maltatoday, SUNDAY, 22 MAY 2011 FINE FOOD OF THE WEEK The spice of life Peppercorns Though no longer used as a currency, to the culinary world pepper is still just as valuable being a vital ingredient to many cuisines around the world. The world's most traded spice, peppercorns are native to India, though are grown in many other tropical regions with Vietnam being the largest producer and exporter. The dried fruit of the flowering vine Piperaceae is available in many different varieties – black, white, green, orange and pink. Flavours and heat vary according to how ripe the peppercorn is when harvested and the methods used for drying and preserving. The largest black peppercorn is the Tellicherry, considered to be the best because it's left on the vine longer for more developed flavour. Other black peppercorns are Sarawak, Malabar and Vietnamese, but unless you're buying from a specialty spice store, the packaging usually doesn't specify the origin. ]SUBHEAD[ Black pepper Black pepper is produced from the still-green unripe drupes of the pepper plant and is cooked briefly in hot water before it dries. The heat ruptures the cell walls speeding up the work of the browning enzymes and forming a dark wrinkly shell after being dried. Once the peppercorns are dried, pepper spirit and oil can be extracted from the berries by crushing them. Pepper spirit is used in famous beverages like Coca-Cola and many medicinal and beauty products. Pepper oil is also used as a massage oil and in certain beauty treatments. Like most spices, black pepper tastes best when freshly ground. A quality peppermill allows you to control the size of the grind from fine to coarse. For small quantities of freshly ground pepper, a pepper mill is usually enough, but if you need larger quantities, a spice grinder or coffee mill is a time saver. White pepper The darker skin of the pepper fruit is removed leaving the pungent seed. Red pepper berries are usually soaked in water where the outer skin softens and decomposes. They are then rubbed to remove any excess skin leaving the white spicy seed. These peppercorns have a slightly hotter flavour and help keep light colored dishes and sauces aesthetically appealing. These peppercorns go especially well in sauces, on light-coloured meats such as fish, and even in mashed potatoes. White peppercorns have a unique aroma that is not only hot, but slightly musky. They are the preferred pepper in much of the world. Green pepper Green pepper, like black, is made from the unripe drupes and is treated to retain its green colour. Pickled peppercorns, also green, are unripe drupes preserved in brine or vinegar. Fresh, unpreserved green pepper drupes, largely unknown in the West, are used in some Asian cuisines, particularly Thai cuisines, and have are piquant and fresh with a bright aroma. Red pepper Orange pepper or red pepper usually consists of ripe red pepper drupes preserved in brine and vinegar. Ripe red peppercorns can Flavours and heat of the different coloured peppercorns vary according to how ripe the peppercorn is when harvested, and the methods used for drying and preserving also be dried using the same colour-preserving techniques used to produce green pepper. Pink pepper These rare and sometimes hard to find peppercorns come from France's Reunion Island off the Madagascar coast in the Indian Ocean. They have a fruity, slightly tart flavour, which goes especially well in fruit sauces, vinaigrette, and desserts. Pink peppercorns have a rich pink colour that adds an interesting touch of colour to foods. These are not true 'peppercorns', but a similar tasting berry from South America. Sichuan pepper The Sichaun peppercorn is widely grown and used in many Asian dishes and like the pink peppercorn is not related to the other peppercorns or chili peppers. It is a key component of Chinese five-spice powder and the taste is a bit pungent and very fragrant with a hint of citrus. It also doesn't possess the heat of other peppercorns or chili peppers. Preparation tips Pepper should be added to cooked dishes towards the end of cooking to prevent creating a bitter flavour, which can occur when pepper is cooked too long. Cooking for more than two hours completely zaps the flavour and aromas from the peppercorns. Pepper will have an amplified flavor after food it is in has been frozen. Try adding pink peppercorns to dishes and sauces to add color, or keep your light-colored dishes and sauces light with white peppercorns. Freshly ground pepper goes surprisingly well on fresh fruit. This is especially true for pink peppercorns – they are a common ingredient in fruit sauces and as a garnish for fruit dishes. Try lightly toasting peppercorns before use. RECIPE OF THE WEEK Chocolate fondant with salted caramel Ingredients For the salted caramel • • • • • • • 15gdarkmuscovadosugar 200ml whipping or double cream 20gglucose 60gsugar Lemonjuice,totaste pinchsalt freshlygroundblackpepper,to taste For the chocolate fondant • • • • • • • • 15gcocoapowder 15gsugar 80g good-quality dark chocolate, minimum 60% cocoa solids, roughly chopped 80gbutter,plusextraforgreasing 2eggs 1eggyolk 45gicingsugar 18garrowroot For the chocolate sauce • • 90mlfull-fatmilk 130ggood-qualitydarkchocolate, minimum 80% cocoa solids, roughly chopped To serve • • Icingsugar,todust Ice-cream Method For the salted caramel, place the dark muscovado sugar and cream in a saucepan. Using thoroughly wet hands and spoon, add the glucose to the sugar and cream mixture and bring the mixture to the boil. (NB: Glucose sticks to dry hands and spoons.) Meanwhile, heat the caster sugar in another pan over a low heat, stirring continuously until golden-brown and caramelised. Remove from the heat instantly. Carefully, pour the hot cream and glucose mixture over the caramelised sugar (the mixture may splutter) and return the mixture to a simmer. Continue to simmer until the caramel mixture has thickened and darkened and the temperature reaches 102°C. (NB: Use a sugar thermometer to check the temperature of the caramel.) Remove the pan from the heat and carefully stir in the lemon juice and salt. Season with freshly ground black pepper and stir gently once more. Set aside to cool slightly. Pour the caramel into small silicone moulds or ice cube trays. When the caramel has completely cooled, freeze it for at least two hours, or until set. (NB: You will not need all of the caramel for this recipe. The remaining caramel can be stored in the freezer for up to three months.) For the chocolate fondant, grease the insides of four ring moulds, 5cm/2in diameter and 6cm/2½in deep, with softened butter. In a bowl, mix together the cocoa powder and caster sugar until well combined. Dust the inside of the ring moulds with the mixture, shaking off any excess. Place the prepared ring moulds onto a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper. Melt the chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water (do not allow the base of the bowl to touch the water). Meanwhile, place the eggs and egg yolk into a bowl and whisk together until pale and fluffy. Sift the icing sugar into the whisked eggs, whisking until well combined. Next, sift in the arrowroot and whisk until the mixture is pale, thick, has doubled in volume and the beaters leave a trail on the surface of the mixture when lifted. (NB: This is called the ribbon stage.) Whisk the melted chocolate mixture into the egg mixture until well combined. Using a ladle, fill each of the prepared ring moulds with the chocolate fondant mixture until they are three-quarters full. Add one piece of frozen caramel to the centre of each ring mould and press down so that it is nestled halfway down the mould. Gently push the chocolate fondant mixture over the caramel to cover it completely. Chill the chocolate fondants in the fridgeforatleast30minutesandup to24hours. When the chocolate fondants have chilled,preheattheovento200°C. Transfer the chilled chocolate fondantstotheovenandbakefor5 minutes, or until the tops have just formed a crust. Remove the fondants from the oven and allow to cool. When the fondants have cooled, run a butter knife around the insides of each mould to loosen the fondants. Carefully remove the moulds. Chill the fondants in the fridge for at least30minutes. Meanwhile, for the chocolate sauce, heat the milk in a pan until just simmering. Add the chocolate and whisk well until smooth and well combined, then remove from the heat. When ready to serve, preheat the ovento180°C. Bakethefondantsfor8minutes,or until the cakes have risen. To serve, place a spoonful of the chocolate sauce into the centre of each of four serving plates, smoothing it out into an oblong. Dust the chocolate fondants with icing sugar and place on top of the puddle of sauce, in the middle. Sprinkle the caramelised pistachios and almonds around the plate. Place one quenelle of pistachio ice cream next to the fondant. Serve immediately.