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MT 1 December 2013

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35 maltatoday, TRAVEL SUNDAY, 1 DECEMBER 2013 The dynamic Indonesian metropole Jakarta Jakarta was founded on the site of the ancient pepper trading port of Sundra Kelapa, acquiring its present name (meaning city of victory) after the Muslim conquest of the town nearly five hundred years ago. Modern Jakarta is the vibrant, political, cultural, economic, commercial and industrial centre of Indonesia – a city of some 10 million people, drawn from all over the Indonesian archipelago and, increasingly, from other parts of the world too. In recent decades, Jakarta has developed into one of Asia's most dynamic metropolitan centres, with high-rise office buildings and modern shopping centres supplementing the colonial architecture and old two-storey shops and warehouses. What to do? Along the bay front, between Kota and Tanjung Priok, Taman Impian Jaya Ancol is built on land reclaimed in 1962. This 300-hectare, landscaped recreation park, providing non-stop entertainment, has hotels, theatres and a variety of sporting and leisure facilities including bowling. It's easily the city's best entertainment for kids in the city. Its prime attractions include Pasar Seni (Art Market), and Seaworld, with its 'sharkquarium', dugongs and turtles. At the Gelanggang Samudra you can swim with dolphins. Over in the Gelanggang Renang water-park complex there's a wave pool and slide pool plus two artificial beaches. The old town of Batavia, now known as Kota, was once the hub of Dutch colonial Indonesia. Much of the one-time grandeur has now rotted, crumbled or been bulldozed away, but Taman Fatahillah, Kota's central cobblestone square, is still reminiscent of the area's heyday. On the western side of Merdeka Sq, the Museum Nasional, built in 1862, is the best of its kind in Indonesia and one of the finest in Southeast Asia. It has an enormous collection of cultural objects of the various ethnic groups around the country - costumes, musical instruments, model houses and so on - and numerous fine bronzes from the Hindu-Javanese period, as well as many interesting stone pieces salvaged from the Central Javanese and other temples. There's also a superb display of Chinese ceramics dating back to the Han dynasty (300 BC to AD 220), which was almost entirely amassed in Indonesia. Just outside the museum is a bronze elephant that was presented by the King of Thailand in 1871; thus the museum building is popularly known as the Gedung Gajah (Elephant House). Next door is the museum's sleek new building, used for temporary exhibitions; entry is included in the admission fee. Ingloriously dubbed 'Soekarno's final erection', the 132m-high Monas, towering over Merdeka Sq, is both Jakarta's principal landmark and the most famous architectural extravagance of the former dictator. Begun in 1961, this typically masculine column was not completed until 1975, when it was officially opened by Soeharto. The National Monument is allegedly constructed entirely of Italian marble, and is topped with a sculpted flame, gilded with 35kg of gold leaf. The highlight of a visit are the smoggy views of Jakarta Much of the one-time grandeur has now rotted, crumbled or been bulldozed away, but Taman Fatahillah, Kota's central cobblestone square, is still reminiscent of the area's heyday from the top of the monument. In the base of the National Monument, the National History Museum tells the story of Indonesia's independence struggle. Near the Kota train station, the Gereja Sion dates from 1695 and is the oldest remaining church in Jakarta. Also known as Gereja Portugis (Portuguese Church), it was built just outside the old city walls for the so-called "black Portuguese" – the Eurasians and natives captured from Portuguese trading ports in India and Malaya and brought to Batavia as slaves. The exterior of the church is very plain, but inside there are copper chandeliers, a baroque pulpit and the original organ. Although more than 2000 people were buried in the graveyard during 1790 alone, very few tombs remain. Where to stay? Situated prominently in the newly-developed Mega KuninThe Museum Nasional, built in 1862, is the best of its kind in Indonesia and one of the finest in Southeast Asia gan commercial district, alongside lush green spaces and stately residences, The Ritz-Carlton sets new standards of luxury and guest services in the capital city. Nestled in an open area with beautiful views, the sleek sophistication of the exterior gives way to warm elegance inside. Rising 32 floors above the city, in the heart of the capital's bustling central business district, The Shangri-La is in a convenient location, making the award-winning five-star deluxe hotel ideally suited for the business and leisure travellers alike. The Hotel Ciputra is conveniently located just minutes away from the city centre and is close to Jakarta's International Airport. The hotel is directly connected to the Ciputra Mall, one of Jakarta's largest malls providing access to a wide range of exclusive shops, cinemas and many other places of entertainment. Where to eat? Occupying the premises of a beautifully restored warehouse that dates back to 1628, VOC Galangan is a fabulously atmospheric café. Enjoy a drink or meal inside the beamed interior or on the terrace, which overlooks a grassy courtyard where there's a vintage car and horse-buggy carriage. Manager Derek Courbois runs a tight ship, and prices are very reasonable for dishes like gado gado given the setting. An attractive selection of dishes from around the archipelago is available from Lara Djonggrang, stunning decor that mixes traditional Indonesian f lair with North African charm, atmospheric lighting and a great wine list make this one stunning place to eat. Get some authentic Vietnamese food at Vietopia, including steaming pho noodle broth, and plenty of delicious chicken, beef and seafood mains – green papaya with shrimp is gorgeous. All dishes are moderately priced and delicately spiced and the surroundings are very attractive, with Zen-inf luenced minimalist decor and bamboo plants. How to get there? Ingloriously dubbed 'Soekarno's final erection', the 132m-high Monas Tower is both Jakarta's principal landmark and the most famous architectural extravagance of the former dictator Emirates offers daily services from Malta to Jakarta with a stop over in Dubai. Flights departing from Malta on 28 December and returning on 13 January were priced at €1010.55 including tax by the time of going to print. Total f lying time is approximately 15.5 hours.

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