Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/269668
36 RESTO OF THE WEEK FOOD Lovage BUGIBBA, for me at least, is the most unlikely place to find a restaurant worthy of a trip to the concrete jungle. When I think of restaurants in Bugibba, I think of meals the tourist-on-a-shoestring would enjoy and that generally keeps me away. Lovage was a pleas- ant surprise. The word lovage makes me think of East London and something Jamie Oliver might say to simply mean lots of love. So when I walked into Lovage I was expecting some of his influence. However Matthew, chef patron of Lovage, soon let me in on what is behind the name of his restaurant. Lovage is the English word for kar- fusa. Although most people trans- late the word to celery, karfusa is not really celery but it's Maltese cousin – a little softer in texture and milder in flavour. Matt gets some of this delicate herb into many of his dishes in- cluding a starter of button mush- rooms, lovage and cream, a pasta with lovage, leeks and dolce latte and a main of rabbit saddle filled with lovage chicken mousse and pistachios. He is even toying with the idea of putting lovage in a des- sert but he hasn't perfected a recipe yet so refuses to go into details. The menu at Lovage reflects very much what Matt is passionate about. He is of the firm belief that passion comes through into a dish and unless the chef truly loves what he is doing, the dish can never be spectacular. After years of training, Matt has opened up on his own, and is ex- cited about experimenting with new f lavour combinations and exciting dishes using fresh ingre- dients and everything made from scratch and to order. He says the secret is to create something that you can't get every where else. Sommelier Miguel works closely with Matt to establish what wines go best with the changing menu. The dining experience does not rely on food alone but also depends on pairing with great wines. Subtle advice and a choice of wines make wine selection at Lovage an educational experience where you are bound to have an evening of explosive f lavours. The restaurant is well hidden in the concrete jungle that is Bu- gibba, however once inside you quickly forget the world outside to settle down for a delightful meal. Having been open for just six months, Lovage already has a high proportion of return cus- tomers. Rachel Zammit Cutajar takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Valley Road, B'Kara Tel: 2144 4400 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2009 Marchesi de Frescobaldi, Tuscany ( 94 points) Castelgiocondo is located on the southwest quadrant of Montalcino, just a few kilometres from Castelnuovo dell'Abate and from the lovely Romanesque abbey of Sant'Antimo. This estate, which covers 815 hectares, includ- ing 235 hectares of vineyards, is deeply rooted in the history of Montalcino and is one of the most prestigious in the area. It has been recognized for its strenuous efforts to develop to the fullest the qualities inherent in this viticulturally-rich zone. A model winery com- mitted to renewing the prestige of the great Brunello crus, CastelGiocondo personifies and preserves its unique, venerable, and indis- soluble relationship with its historic terroir The 2008 Marchesi De' Frescobaldi Castel- giocondo Brunello di Montalcino, composed of 100% Sangiovese that was aged in French Oak for 36 months, has intense aromas of cigar box, pine, faint leather, dried cherry and pomegranate on the nose and dried cherry and cigar box on the palate. It is a medium bodied, extra-dry, integrated wine; balanced with good, mouthwatering acidity, drying tannins (decant for 30-60 min) and a long and silky finish. Enjoy on-its-own; drink now to 2020. Imported by Charles Grech & co. Ltd, Valley Road, B'Kara T: 2144 - 4400 Lovage Bistro is open from Tuesday to Saturday for dinner from 19:00 and 22:30 and Sunday for lunch from 12:00 to 16:00. Lovage Bistro Triq l-Imhar, Bugibba Tel: 21572088 Web: www.lovagebistro.com Facebook: LovageBistro A hidden gem in the heart of Bugibba