Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/361046
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 10 AUGUST 2014 34 SLOVENIA'S costal hub has it all – lashings of olive oil, fishy feasts and as much wine as you can man- age. And summer's just the season to visit. Why go? It's only 47km long, but Slovenia's coast is damn pretty. Historic Piran is the jewel in a crown of a collection of waterside destinations, all boast- ing sun, sparkling sea and top food and wine from seafood-laden pastas to robust refosk reds. What to do? Piran occupies its own peninsula and people have been living here since before the Romans. A wan- der around the current warren of vaulted passageways reveals a street layout that is more medieval, dating back to the 12th century and the Venetian empire. The colourful houses themselves, along with the expansive Tartini Square – named after the composer who was born here – are distinctly Austo-Hungarian. Look out though for the Venetian treasure that is the red, ornate building at the square's edge. At Punta, the 'tip' of the peninsula that is home to a lighthouse and the Church of St Clement tower, the sea almost surrounds you. But the best views are from the hill on which St George's Cathedral is perched. Its bell tower joins other superb sights such as Minorite monastery and the remnants of an original fortification wall. If Piran is the Slovenian coast's his- toric jewel then Portoz, five minutes' drive away, is its answer to Monte Carlo. The Austro-Hungarians used to come here for the thermal waters and socialising – these days there is a casino, a small beach and a sprin- kling of seaside glitz in the form of yachts and shopping. You can't visit the coast without checking out the Secovlje saltpans, 15 minutes away from Piran's cen- tre. Harvesting the same way for 700 years, the salt workers are par- ticularly busy in August. Last year a sleek outdoor eco-spa opened on- site, Lepa Vida, with treatments fea- turing the product. Next join a boat trip to view small eco fish farm Fonda, which rears top-quality bass (it's worth it for the chance to get out onto the water!), or spend an afternoon exploring Izola, a historic town with fewer tourists and plenty of shops, cafés and food festivals. Just don't leave without visiting the local wine cellars. Whites from Mal- vasia and reds from Refosk are on of- fer at family-run operations around Piran, as is olive oil (everyone makes their own here) and cured hams and cheeses. Korenika & Moskon is the largest yet still charming boutique. Where to stay? The views of the steel-blue sea from Hotel Piran, on the south- facing strip of the peninsula, are uninterrupted. Or invoke the glitz of the Austro-Hungarian era at the restored, iconic Kempinski Palace Portoroz. It has some history – Franz Ferdinand stayed here on the way to his date with fate in Sarajevo. These days the chiselled exterior contains a pool, spa and fine-dining restaurant. Where to eat? In Istria, the holy trinity of olive oil, pasta and fish rules – particu- larly the latter. Get stuck in on Pi- ran's waterfront in traditional eatery Gostilna Pri Mari. Rustic, generous plates of homemade gnocchi with langostines or octopus salad roll out from the kitchen. The cosy Sonja, in Izola, is also an excellent choice for an aquatic-based lunch – try the moreish spicy squid with polenta of seafood soup. Ribizi, halfway between Piran and Porotoz, is a more refined dining option, boasting views of the coast from on high – tuck into homemade Istrian truffle trofie pasta and ex- plore the strong wine offering. In the heart of the saltpans, Restaurant Fioret is a good bet for lunch – the menu changes daily but expect cod pate, seafood risotto and local sea bass cooked on a brick of salt. Stock up on local wines and olive oils in Izola at 1001 Vino. The owner is extremely knowledgeable about Primorska region wines and offers tastings. How to get there? Air Malta offer daily flights to Ljubljana via Frankfurt. Ljubljana is approx. a 1.5-hour drive away with buses running every three hours. Flights departing from Malta on 14 August and returning on 21 August were priced at €493.24. TRAVEL Piran, the crown jewel of the Slovenian coast Piran, on the Slovenian coast, offers more than enough reasons for a visit; olive oil, wine and history. The tip of the peninsula, Punta, is home to a lighthouse and the Church of St Clement tower and is almost completely surrounded by sea. Spend an afternoon exploring the historic town of Izola. Portoroz is Solevnia's answer to Monte Carlo with a casino, small beach, yacht marina and some shopping