Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/388498
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 28 SEPTEMBER 2014 42 TRAVEL IT'S that time of year again. Gasp- ing for breath in the sweltering humidity, those of us who are too young or too old to have children at home are wondering why we took our holidays in August, and trying to find excuses to get away for a few days' break. In fact many of us are dreaming of going some- where cool, even if there's a chance of rain. And the village of Port- meirion on the tip of north-west- ern Wales ticks all the boxes for a long weekend. At just two and a half hours' drive from Liverpool airport, Port- meirion sits on a sandy tidal estu- ary, surrounded by the stunning Snowdonia National Park. Clough Williams-Ellis bought the land in 1925 to build his dream village. It was location, location, location. Not of course in the sense that it was close to London, but the wooded valley rising up from the estuary is spectacular. There was a long-abandoned large house, and a couple of crumbling cottages, but the previous owners had already planted a number of rare trees and plants. Within one year the main house had been converted into a hotel, and it was enlarged over the next five years to cope with the inf lux of clientele that were en- chanted by the unique atmosphere. It was frequented by artists, gang- sters, and aristocrats who mixed freely with each other in this en- chanted place. But for Williams-Ellis, the hotel was only the start of his dream. He wanted to create a Mediterranean village of his own design in his little corner of Wales. To finance this he realised that the village he intended building needed to be an extension of the hotel. The accom- modation would all be to rent, for a few days, or a few weeks. And over the next 50 years he brought his dream to reality. Williams-Ellis admired Tuscan style architecture, and particularly loved the seaside town of Portofi- no. The cottages and larger build- ings are a hotchpotch of different styles, and although many of them are in the Italianate style, what re- ally makes you think that you are in a perfect Tuscan village are the bright colors. Walking through the piazzas and alleys you could be forgiven for thinking that you were on a film set. But the buildings are more than just facades. Every one has its purpose, be it accom- modation, shops, or cafés. Which is not to say that Portmeirion has not been used for film sets, with the cult 1960s series 'The Prisoner' topping the list. Portmeirion is a private village, now owned and run by a charita- ble trust. You can buy a ticket for a day visit, but to capture the real magic it is better to spend a few nights. You can either stay in the hotel, or one of the self-catering apartments in the village. Walk- ing around in the morning before the day trippers are allowed in, or in the evening when they have left, is a must do. Sitting on the hotel terrace, sipping your sundowner while watching the tide ebb or f low is a wonderful experience. The sheer speed at which the level of water changes is something we're not used to in the Med. Portmeirion also has its own dis- tinct brand of pottery and porce- lain which is extremely attractive. There is a shop offering everything they produce, so either don't go in there, or be prepared to order a new dinner service! There are a number of little res- taurants and snack bars open dur- ing the day, but even if you are not staying the night, don't be afraid to order a snack at the hotel. For the evening meal, only the ho- tel dining room is open, or you may choose to eat at Castell Deudraeth, just outside the village, which has a more informal atmosphere. There are many walking paths around the village, either along the estuary, or in the surrounding thickly wooded hills, where you will come across temples and man- made ponds, all of which were cre- ated by Williams-Ellis as part of his dream. But it would be a crime to miss the grandeur of the Snowdonia Na- tional Park while here. A good way to start is taking a ride behind a steam train. The Ffestiniog railway starts at Porthmadog, just a couple of miles from Portmeirion, and winds its way through the stun- ning scenery which is guaranteed to be green, even in the middle of summer. Or just take your rental car and head off into the wilder- ness. Once you've turned off the main road there will be virtually no traffic, and you will be able to admire the soaring mountains, luscious pastures, and the fast- running streams cascading down their rocky beds. One thing is guaranteed. Once you have visited the enchanted kingdom of Portmeirion, you'll want to go back there. So remem- ber to book your stay well in ad- vance. Portmeirion for a cool, long weekend TOBY ROSS takes you on a visit to Fantasy Land