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MT 16 March 2014

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 22 MAY 2011 35 RECIPE OF THE WEEK Gozo gbejniet FOLLOWING a period where as a popula- tion, we tended to go with the notion that if it was made abroad it was better, the local stuff is starting to take over and artisan foodstuffs are being given the credit they deserve. Gbejniet recipes have been passed down from genera- tion to generation and remain a trusted favour- ite among Maltese and tourists alike. The original recipes for gbejniet date back to before the British introduced the cow to our shores and so were made with sheep or goat's milk. The production of gbejniet is steeped in tradition with a number of rules having been passed on from mother to daughter – some which are plainly superstition. It was believed that the best cheese was pre- pared from the milk of sheep born in autumn and not from those born in spring. The fact is that during a rainy season, when the sheep can have as much grass as they desire, the milk is more plentiful. The more grass and fodder they get, the better the milk and the better the cheese. A local tradition held that the best cheese could be obtained in the months with the let- ter 'r': September, October, November, Decem- ber, January, February, March and April. Milk was not considered good enough in the months without an 'r': May, June, July and August. Gbejniet are made by adding rennet – a di- gestive enzyme produced by mammals – to the milk and allowing the milk to stand until it hardens enough to be cut with a knife, where- upon it is placed in plastic containers and al- lowed to harden further. Gbejniet are available in three different types. A large quantity is sold fresh as gbejniet friski, and is best eaten with some crispy Maltese bread. Gbejniet are also available half-dried or moxxi, having settled for only 24 hours. Fresh gbejniet can be left to dry on cheese-hurdles inside a nemusiera, a small box covered with a mosquito screen to shield the gbejniet from mosquitoes. Such boxes were once a common sight in the villages and some still survive. In about two to three days the cheese is dry enough to be sold, and after a few more days they are good for grating. Gbejniet are also available peppered, gbejniet tal-bzar. Semi-dried gbejniet are dipped in boil- ing water and dried with a cloth, then placed in a bottle and sprinkled with salt, pepper and vinegar according to taste. maltatoday, SUNDAY, 16 MARCH 2014 FINE FOOD OF THE WEEK Traditional flavours Ingredient • 1 gbejna per person (do not use the very fresh ones as they are too soft) • 1 sheet filo pastry per cheeselet • Olive oil to brush • A little fresh breadcrumbs • Sesame seeds Method 1. Simply lay the filo pastry sheet on a board and brush with olive oil (keep the rest of the pastry covered as it dries very quickly). 2. Sprinkle some breadcrumbs on the pastry and fold over in half. 3. Place a gbejna in the middle and wrap up into a parcel. 4. Brush with more oil and sprinkle with some sesame seeds. 5. Place on baking parchment. Cover and keep in the fridge till needed. 6. To cook, heat oven to 200°C and bake for about 10 mins till golden. 7. Serve at once with some chutney or relish. Gbejniet baked in filo pastry Gbejniet are available as fresh, dried or peppered

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