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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 31 AUGUST 2014 38 TRAVEL Falling in love with Paris all over again Why go? A quick glance at the guidebook and you might think you've done Paris be- fore. But it's a city that always offers a new angle, and here we have some hid- den gems and must-dos that will help you fall in love with this classic city all over again. What to do? Although the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe are irresistible lures, if you want to get a sense of the city's mechanics, head down to one of its markets. In the gritty Port de Cling- nancourt, a sprawling antiques mar- ket, known to locals simply as Les Puces (The Fleas), you'll find stalls selling everything from furniture and lighting to artworks and tin toy collec- tions. Heading back into town on the metro, hop off at Ledru-Rollin for the Marche d'Aligre. It's the Champs- Elysees of fresh produce, with pyra- mids of apricots so buxom, you'll be hard pressed not to pinch one. After the maelstrom of the markets, head up to the heights of Montmartre to reacquaint yourself with the city's layout, before heading back down through the gardens to the pretty neighbourhood of Saint-Georges and the 'bobo' Rue de Martyrs for a spot of window shopping. For a concentrated dose of culture, it's hard to pass up the magnificence of the Louvre or the Musee d'Orsay, but both the Delacroix and Rodin mu- seums are wonderful; particularly the sculpture garden of the latter. Catching a splash of live jazz at the bandstand in the Luxembourg Gar- dens is a quintessential way to cool off, as is taking a bottle of wine down to the banks of the Siene to savour the fading sunlight. Where to stay? In the sophisticated eighth arrondis- sement, the Hotel du Collectionneur is a whole-hearted homage to art deco. The theme is present throughout its 478 rooms and suites, some of which come with views of the planted central courtyard. Having recently signed up Michelin-starred chef Francois Gag- naire to revamp its Safran restaurant, it is shaking off the shackles of the pre- vious management to clinch top-dog status. Hotel Vernet celebrated its 100th birthday this year with a top-to-to modernisation. Its 50 rooms are un- derstated and elegant, with Carrara marble sinks, brass taps and mosaic floors, while the glass dome that floods the restaurant with natural light was designed by Gustave Eiffel himself. If it's period detail you're after, L'Hotel on the Rue des Beaux-Arts has hardly changed a stitch since Oscar Wilde spent his last days there. The 20 bijou rooms are outfitted with antique furniture, while the grotto-like pool in the basement is magical too. Where to eat? Following the formula of its suc- cessful Big Apple-based forerunner, Buvette Gastrotheque on Rue Henry Monnier combines snappy New York service with a Parisian conviviality. It helps that the small and simple plates of food, like a roast chicken salad, lift- ed by a punchy vinaigrette, are carried out with the same conviction. In the heart of Les Puces market, French designer Philippe Starck's Ma Cocette is styled to a typically eclec- tic finish with pieces sourced from its ramshackle surroundings. It is a fun and fanciful place to stop for a cof- fee and croissant in the morning or a lunch or dinner of something more substantial, such as a side of veal with mushrooms and cream. While the food at Les 110 de Taillevent is hard to fault, particularly the lobster ravioli in a basil and citrus butter sauce, its ex- tensive wine list (110 bottles) is even harder. Around the corner from the Aligre market, La Table d'Aligre dishes up fantastic seafood dishes in an urban space. For gourmands, La Grande Epicerie Paris in the basement of Le Bon Marche is a must. With over 30,000 gourmet products in stock, it'll push your self-discipline to its limits! How to get there? Airmalta offer regular services be- tween Malta and Paris. Flights depart- ing from Malta, on Airmalta, on 11 September and returning on 18 Sep- tember were priced at €405.33. Prices are inclusive of airport taxes. Ryanair offer flights to Marsaille and Provence. From macarons to flea markets, moody wine bars to Michelin stars, the City of Lights doses out culture, glamour and inimitable style time and time again. Though you may think you have already done Paris, this magical City of Lights offers a new angle at every visit. Take the time to fall in love with her all over again Though it is now possible to find macarons in Malta, no place beats Paris for top quality macrons of all colours Marche d'Aligre is the Champs- Elysees of fresh produce Though an essential landmark in the City of Lights, few Parisians have been up the Eiffel Tower, reserving that privilege for tourists At Les Puces, Paris' largest antiques market, you'll find stalls selling everything from furniture and lighting to artworks and tin toy collections From Montmartre you can familiarise yourself with the layout of the whole of Paris