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MT 29 November 2015

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 29 NOVEMBER 2015 36 Food 36 Nipozzano Riserva is a lovely ruby-red. The nose opens with dark wild berries and cherry, hints of candy floss and pleasant floral notes of lilac and chocolate. The spicy component emerges with nuances of clove and green peppercorn. The palate is characterized by a distinct tactile approach in which the stamp of the terroir is underlined by a lively minerality. The tannin texture is tight but not sharp which is also an expression of the uniqueness of the soils of Nipozzano. The finish returns to the intense fruity notes already identified on the nose. Critical Acclaim James Suckling (91 points) - "A chewy, rich red with blueberry and blackberry character, a full body and a firm tannin backbone. Always an excellent, well-structured Chianti. Drink or hold." Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2011 Frescobaldi, Tuscany (Italy) Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Resto of the week A good restaurant experience is never just about the food. Certainly the edibles are important – otherwise you would go to the cinema or a museum. But there are other elements too that can make or break a restaurant's 'experience factor', as I like to call it. Staff and service are two important ones. You cannot enjoy a meal if the person serving it is not, at the very least, competent and courteous. The décor is another. While gastro- nomic works of art can be found in the strangest, most low-key locations, a din- gy garage in a dodgy neighbourhood may not be a great location for a first date, for instance. On all these fronts, Suruchi delivers. Set in the heart of Paceville, a town bet- ter known for its unruly tourists and youngsters who drink too much, this little oasis brings an interesting fusion of Middle Eastern, Indian and Mediter- ranean dishes to the table. Our attentive host checked in regularly but not too of- ten – there's nothing worse than being asked how your food is while you work- ing on a mouthful of it. The tastebuds were certainly well taken care of. None of the three sections of the menu were neglected – each geographi- cal region was well represented with a variety of starters, soups, mains and des- serts. Mix and match a few or stick to one region – a meal at Suruchi can span the globe or keep it local, with as many combinations as you can think of. Our party decided on the former and, in true Mediterranean style, shared our dishes. We started off with embattan – potatoes stuffed with beef and deep-fried – and chicken pakora, which is what all fried chicken dreams of tasting like. A Shorba Libiya and Dal soup fol- lowed, accompanied by an Indian beer, the Kingfisher. My favourite was the spicy North African soup, with chunks of lamb in a satisfying broth. The Dal, a familiar dish on any Indian menu, was thick and reassuring, a welcome warmer on a chilly night. Between courses is the perfect time to take in one's surroundings. There are two types of seating available; tables set out in the middle of the dining room, great for larger, more social groups, and booths sectioned off with sheer drapes. If Aladdin were to take Jasmine out on a date, he would pick one of those. Private but not isolated, they are perfect little pods for a more intimate meal. With a swing of the kitchen doors, our main courses arrived. The biryani chicken was an impressive mountain of a meal, delicately seasoned chicken atop saffron rice that was as satisfying as it looked. The lamb tajine, brought steam- ing to the table, was gloriously tender, requiring no knife to ease the meat off the bone. Simply wonderful. We ended (with some encouragement – at this point we were full to bursting) with some Indian ice cream. A mango explosion that was both creamy and tangy. A refreshing end to a meal packed with flavour and one I am certainly ea- ger to return to. Suruchi 35, Ball Street, Paceville Tel: 27515000; 77515000 Web: www.suruchirestaurantmalta.com A fusion of flavours at Suruchi

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