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MT 22 January 2017

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 22 JANUARY 2017 35 Pecorino PARMEGGIANO Reggiano takes the spotlight when it comes to Italian hard cheeses, with its crys- tally textures and deep flavours. However it is not the only hard cheese worth shouting about that comes out of Italy. Pecorino cheeses refer to all Ital- ian cheeses made with ewe's milk, hence its name – pecora being the Italian word for sheep. Though Pecorino is made throughout Italy and Sicily, there are numerous varieties that differ in flavour and texture according to the region it is produced in. The most famous variety outside of Italy is the Pecorino Romano. DOP protected, it is mostly manu- factured on the island of Sardinia, though production is also allowed in Lazio and the Tuscan province of Grosseto. Other popular protected varie- ties are the Pecorino Sardo, from Sardinia, Pecorino Toscano and the Pecorino Siciliano. All come in a variety of styles depending on how long they have been aged. The more matured cheeses, referred to as stagionato ("seasoned" or "aged"), are harder but still crumbly in texture and have decidedly buttery and nutty flavours. The other two types, semi-stagionato and fresco, have a softer texture and milder cream and milk tastes. In Southern Italy, it is traditional to add black peppercorns or red chilli flakes to Pecorino, produc- ing what is called Pecorino Pepato – literally, "peppered Pecorino". Today many other additions are made, for example walnuts or rucola or tiny pieces of white or black truffle. In Sardinia, the larvae of the cheese fly are intentionally intro- duced into Pecorino Sardo to pro- duce a local delicacy called casu marzu. Fiore Sardo is a variety of pecorino from Sardinia, made using a rennet derived from wild flowers. A good Pecorino Stagionato is often the finish of a meal, served with pears and walnuts or driz- zled with strong chestnut honey. It is also often used to finish pasta dishes, and used to be the natural choice for most Italian regions from Umbria down to Sicily, rath- er than the more expensive Par- meggiano Reggiano. It is still pre- ferred today for the pasta dishes of Rome and Lazio, particularly in pasta all'amatriciana, pasta cacio and pasta alla Gricia. The aromatic Pecorino delle Crete Senesi comes from Tuscany, and is coated with tomato paste; Pecorino Toscano is a milder, to- mato-less version. Pecorino Sicili- ano Canestrato comes in various forms, including the fresh Tuma, a half-ripened version (called Pri- musali), and a mature one suitable for grating. Pecorino dolce is a lightly salted example of the cheese, and is usu- ally eaten fresh. Fine food of the week Food Ingredients • 3 small courgettes • A pinch of salt • Extra virgin olive oil • 30g aged Pecorino Romano • Runny honey • Fresh mint • Pine nuts, toasted Method 1. Preheat oven to 160°C. 1. Place a griddle pan on a high heat. 2. While it heats up, slice the courgettes on an angle into medium-large chunks. 3. Put them in a bowl, add a pinch of salt and a drop of olive oil and run your hands through to coat them lightly. 4. Lay them in the hot pan and don't be tempted to move them until they have black char lines. 5. Turn them over and cook for another couple of minutes to chargrill the other side. 6. Using a peeler, shave the Pecorino into a bowl, tip in the courgettes straight from the griddle and mix well. 7. Season to taste with salt. 8. Lavishly trickle over a small drizzle of honey to coat the courgettes lightly while they are still warm, in order to in- tensify the flavours and bind everything together. 9. Garnish with more shavings of Pecorino, mint and toasted pine nuts. 10. Serve on small plates and eat while still slightly warm. Recipe of the week Warm courgette, pecorino and honey salad Buttery sheep's cheese from Italy Serves 2 (as a starter or 1 as a main)

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