Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/408403
Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Valley Road, B'Kara Tel: 2144 4400 Located in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, immersed in a park of 20 hectares and surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and woods, Villa Mangiacane boasts a breathtaking view over the Chianti Hills. This ancient house dating back to 1600 imposes itself with great majesty on the surrounding nature, not aggressing it but managing to create an image of great harmony with it. The wine poured a dark red in the glass, with a lovely brick-orange tint around the rim – a characteristic of red wines that have had some time to age. It smelled strongly of wild cherries and, beneath them, raspberries, along with a bit of smoke. Upon drinking, concentrated notes of cherry and cranberry washed across my tongue, with some tannins emerging mid-palate and leading into a long, anise finish... Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, B'Kara T: 2144-4400 Chianti Classico – Mangiacane, Tuscany, Italy 36 RESTO OF THE WEEK maltatoday, SUNDAY, 2 NOVEMBER 2014 THE changes that our food culture has seen over the past few years are a double-edged sword. The interest in what goes into food is, on the one hand, some excellent progress in the march away from the unhealthy, un- recognizable food we put in our bod- ies. A concurrently growing interest in the positive influence of exercise is making us if not healthier, at least more aware. On the other hand, finding good food that has not been altered out of recognition is both costly and difficult. The truth is that proc- essed foods are easier to make, store and transport, making them cheaper for the consumer. Fresh quality food usually comes at a pre- mium. Which is why high-quality Italian Mozzarella (or the catchy and ver- satile 'hiM' for short) is a welcome addition to the plethora of fast food joints that dot the Sliema front. A small, tastefully decorated establishment, its walls are lined with shelves upon shelves of wines, beer, pasta, sauces, desserts and everything else the good life is made of. But the best thing hiM offers doesn't come in packages. In fact, unless you order some to go, it never even sees the inside of a con- tainer. hiM makes its mozzarella – be- tween 100 and 150 kilos – fresh every day, from frozen buffalo milk shipped in from Naples. It comes in a variety of shapes and sizes; the bite-sized bocconcini, the larger milky spheres to share and the sim- ply divine straccata, which combines shredded mozzarella with panna cream. Each can be eaten at the moz- zarella bar, by themselves or in a selection of appretising sandwiches and salads, or taken out to enjoy lei- surely at home. hiM's appeal comes from the man- agement's unfaltering focus on qual- ity. The selection of foods and bev- erages on sale are all artisanal and chosen specifically to complement the mozzarella. Chef Felice Fran- zese, who is a celebrated somme- lier and teacher aside from being a master chef, has lent his expertise in training apprentices and pairing the food and beverages on offer, giving the hungry customer (and the lucky reviewer) something to write home about. And the best part? There is abso- lutely no cooking, in the traditional sense. Fresh bread and of course the mozzarella are made from scratch on site while everything else comes straight from local sources and is then lovingly put together with the least interference possible. Fast food in the cleanest, healthiest sense. hiM has big plans too. This one-of- a-kind concept store is the blueprint for other outlets overseas, including in the directors' native Naples, other areas in Italy and eventually even be- yond European shores. And it's look- ing good. On HiM's first day of busi- ness, the shop saw a steady trickle of curious visitors, no doubt drawn in by the novelty of the place and stick- ing around to explore and try some of the various delicacies on sale. And once they try those tender, ghostly white orbs, they will know the meaning of addiction. Delicious, handmade addiction that needs ab- solutely nothing – not olive oil, not seasoning – to improve on its fla- vour. And here, I suspect, lies the core of hiM's simple but effective business plan. Make something so tasty and moreish that return visits are practically guaranteed. So far, it seems to be working. WINE OF THE WEEK hiM 195, The Strand, Gzira. Tel: 27880400 Email: info@himstore.it Web: www.himstore.eu Facebook: facebook.com/ himstoremalta Rachel Zammit Cutajar takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt FOOD Praise be to hiM! RACHEL AGIUS finds out the true meaning of addiction, with the milky mozzarella made onsite at hiM demanding return visits PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD