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MT 6 September 2015

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2015 Food 35 Fine food of the week FOLLOWING a period where, as a population, we tended to go with the notion that if it was made abroad it was better, the local stuff is starting to take over and arti- san foodstuffs are being given the credit they deserve. Gbejniet reci- pes have been passed down from generation to generation and re- main a trusted favourite among both Maltese and tourists alike. The original recipes for gbejniet date back to before the British in- troduced the cow to our shores so as a result were made with sheep or goat's milk. The production of gbejniet is steeped in tradi- tion with a number of rules hav- ing been passed on from mother to daughter – some of which are plainly superstition. It was locally believed that the best cheese was prepared from the milk of sheep born in autumn, and not from those born in spring. The fact is that during a rainy sea- son when the sheep can have as much grass as they desire the milk is more plentiful. The more grass and fodder they get, the better the milk and the cheese produced. A local tradition held that the best cheese could be obtained in the months with the letter R: Sep- tember, October, November, De- cember, January, February, March and April. Milk was not consid- ered good enough in the months without an R: May, June, July and August. In a world without re- frigerators you could see why this worked. Gbejniet are made by adding rennet – a digestive enzyme pro- duced by mammals – to the milk and allowing the milk to stand un- til it hardens enough to be cut with a knife, whereupon it is placed in plastic containers and allowed to harden further. Gbejniet are available in three different types. A large quantity is sold fresh as gbejniet friski, and is best eaten with crispy Maltese bread. Gbejniet are also available half- dried, moxxi. The cheese that was settled for 24 hours. Fresh gbe- jniet can be left to dry on cheese- hurdles inside a nemusiera, a small box covered with a mos- quito screen to shield the gbejniet from mosquitoes. Such boxes were once a common sight in the villages and some still survive. In about two to three days the cheese is dry enough to be sold, and after a few more days they are good for grating. Gbejniet are also available pep- pered, gbejniet tal-bzar. Semi- dried gbejniet are dipped in boil- ing water and dried with a cloth, then placed in a bottle and sprin- kled with salt, pepper and vinegar according to taste. Ingredients • 6 dried gbejniet • Handfulbabyspinach • 1 beef tomato • 1 pear • Handful pistachios, roasted • Handful basil • Olive oil • Salt and pepper Method 1. Place the pine cones in foil and set them on fire. 2. Place the cheese to one side of the dish. 3. Place the burning pine cones onto the other side of the dish. 4. Cover with two pieces of foil and seal. The fire will go out but the pine cones will keep smoking, imparting flavour to the cheese. 5. Allow to smoke for approx. 10 mins 6. To make the salad place the spinach at the bottom of the dish. 7. Chop the tomato and the pear and place in the dish. 8. Cut the smoked cheese into strips and place on top. 9. Add the basil and pistachios. 10. Season with salt and pepper and add a lug of olive oil. 11. Serve with Maltese bread. This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 6 March, 2015. Recipe of the week Smoked gbejna and pear salad Michael Diacono Traditional flavours of traditional gbejniet Gbejniet are available as fresh, dried or peppered

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