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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 1 MAY 2016 34 Food Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 M Minuty Rose 2015 Chateau Minuty, Provence – France M Minuty Rose 2015 Chateau Minuty, Provence – France A magnificent wine of pleasure : the aromatic harmony of grenache and cinsault offers some notes of peach and candied orange. the mouth is fresh and round. The grapes are carefully selected and come from the best soils of Côtes de Provence and come from vines cultivated in integrated farm way. This rosé with a vibrating expression is a concentration of greedy aromas, with an intense freshness which offers the full expression of fruits. Grapes varieties used: Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt ON the face of it, the slick, shiny new Smart City is very far removed from the quaint fish- ing village of Marsaxlokk. A modern concrete metropolis seems to have little in common with a sun-drenched locale, steeped in history and tradition, save perhaps their proximity to the sea. But there is a thread that connects the two – a family passionate about offering their diners quality produce and an unforgettable experi- ence. I sat down with Stephan Schiavone to find out more. Tartarun came first. Stephan's parents opened the restaurant in 2009, helped by Stephan and his brother, chef James. It was a natural progression for them. The family had been involved with fishing and the in- dustry for many years and, living in Marsa- xlokk, opening a fish restaurant seemed like a no-brainer. The focus was and remains preparing the freshest fish and seafood pos- sible in a way that respected the ingredients and really brought out their potential. The catch of the day remains a customer favour- ite at Tartarun, according to James, probably because it's hard to walk past the display of freshly caught fish without wanting to try it. The prawn carpaccio is also a crowd pleaser, says Stephan, as are the crab, langoustine and prawn tortellacci. At its sister restaurant, Wejla by Tartarun, fish has certainly remained an important element of the menu but it shares the lime- light with a formidable grill selection. Here customers have gone mad for the bouil- labaisse and the lobster agnolotti, as well as the exceptional Côte de veau, a veal rib on the bone. Wejla is the somewhat slicker lit- tle sister in the family. Wejla's minimalist and clean design contrasts with Tartarun's more rustic and traditional interiors, which remain closely connecting to the heritage and history of both the Schiavone family and of the village itself. Stephan tells me the Smart City loca- tion has plenty going for it – large windows flood the place in natural light, ample outdoor seating makes it an excellent summer venue and the fact that the road and all its traffic are a way off makes it easier to enjoy the expan- sive view of the sea while also being family- friendly. What Stephan, who runs Wejla full time now, was going for was a fish and grill restaurant that didn't scream traditional while still being comfortable and friendly. Though they have their own very individual personalities, Tartarun and Wejla share some solid core values. The first is a focus on top- notch, seasonal ingredients. This is absolutely non-negotiable. Service is similarly sacro- sanct to both – attentive staff and white lin- ens are proof of this. Creativity is another important element these two sisters share – the room to explore and tweak and modify ingredients in out-of- the-ordinary ways means customers can try familiar ingredients in prepared in new and unusual ways. Both revamp their menus regularly, giving new dishes their chance to shine. The two also work in tandem when it comes to supporting their communities. Stephan explains how Smart City, despite its detractors, has brought commerce and tourism to southern villages that never quite recovered from the fall of the Jerma Palace hotel. Tartarun and other restaurants in the south stand to gain from the success of Smart City, while Wejla too benefits by means of the reignited interest in fine dining close by. Eve- rybody wins. At the end of the day though, it's the cus- tomer who really gets the prize. Tartarun and Wejla have committed themselves to serv- ing up some spectacular dishes, whether the main ingredients have fins or hooves. Stephan tells me he has many exciting ideas for We- jla in the pipeline, including a set surf'n'turf menu that pairs fish and meat in innovative and mouthwatering ways. There a big things ahead and Wejla by Tartarun is making sure to serve them up with its own unique style. Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK Weijla, Tartarun's slick little sister Tartarun in Marsaxlokk has a reputation for delivering the very best in dining experiences in the south. Her little sister Weijla, at Smart City, is walking in her footsteps but taking on a little character of her own. PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD