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MT 27 August 2017

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35 THE most expensive spice in the world, saffron,w offers subtle flavours sought out by foodies around the world. Saffron has been described by connoisseurs as having a taste reminiscent of metallic honey with grassy or hay-like notes. Used in Indian, Persian, Arabic, Turkish and European cuisines saffron not only offers a deli- cate flavour but also the bright yellow-orange colour associated with paella and bouillabaisse. But why is saffron such a pricey spice? A saffron thread is one of just three stamens produced by the saffron crocus flower and hand- picked, taking just the red-or- ange part and leaving behind the yellow part of the stamen, which is tasteless. Just one ounce of the spice is approximately 14,000 saffron stamens. Luckily just a little bit of saffron goes a long way and very little is needed to flavour food and just a pinch will usually suffice for four to six people. Keep in mind that the flavour of saffron will be stronger the following day. Since heat releases saffron's flavour it is best steeped in hot water before adding to food. This will also allow the colour to dis- perse throughout the food. The most efficient use of saf- fron is to add three teaspoons of hot water to one teaspoon of saffron and leave to soak for a minimum of two hours and a maximum of 12 hours. The sta- mens will increase to one and a half times their dry size. If you are pressed for time soak the saffron, use five teaspoons of water for every teaspoon of saffron and leave to soak for 20 minutes. Then using the back of the spoon, or in a pestle and mortar, mash the threads into a thick paste and use as required. Alternatively toast the threads in a heavy skillet being careful not to burn them and grind the threads into a powder and use as directed by the recipe. Saffron is also available in pow- dered form, though it loses it fla- vour more quickly. The general rule is to use half the amount of powdered saffron as you would saffron threads. Therefore if a recipe calls for half a teaspoon of saffron threads you can sub- stitute it with a quarter teaspoon of saffron powder. Turmeric is often used as a cheaper substitute for saffron, for colour but not for flavour. Saffron is especially good when used in cooking seafood dishes such as bouillabaisse and pael- la. It is also used in risotto and other rice dishes. Try adding some to your next beef stew or tomato-based sauce. To make a wonderful marinade for fish, add saffron threads, garlic, and thyme to vinegar. Saffron is also used in bread and cake cooking. Use your imagination and be creative when using saffron in your cooking. Saffron was used as far back as during the Roman empire, when baths were perfumed with the spice. King Henry VIII's court ladies dyed their hair with it un- til the monarch forbade it, when he feared a saffron shortage might reach his own table. In the 1400s, German dealers who were caught adulterating saffron were burned at the stake. maltatoday, SUNDAY, 27 AUGUST 2017 Fine food of the week Food Ingredients • 6 large egg yolks • 1 ½ cups heavy cream • 1 ½ cups whole milk • ¾ cup sugar • ½ tsp salt • ½ tsp, finely ground saffron • ¼ cup pure rosewater • ½ tsp pure vanilla extract • Dried roses, for garnish Method 1. Set a medium bowl in a large bowl of ice water. 2. In another medium bowl, beat the egg yolks until pale, 1 to 2 mins. 3. In a medium saucepan, whisk the cream with the milk, sugar, salt and saffron. 4. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, whisking, un- til the sugar is completely dissolved. 5. Very gradually whisk half of the hot cream mixture into the beaten egg yolks in a thin stream, then whisk this mixture back into the saucepan. 6. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard is thick enough to lightly coat the back of the spoon, about 12 minutes; don't let it boil. 7. Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into the bowl set in the ice water. 8. Let the custard cool completely, stirring occasion- ally. 9. Stir in the rosewater and vanilla extract. 10. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the custard and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours. 11. Pour the custard base into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. 12. Transfer the ice cream to a chilled 9-by-4-inch metal loaf pan, cover and freeze until firm, at least 4 hours. 13. Serve the ice cream in bowls, garnished with dried roses. Recipe of the week Rosewater and saffron ice cream Tiny strands of gold

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