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IX maltatoday, Sunday, 22 March 2015 Food Fine food of the week Smokey scamorza The south of Italy is famous for its Scamor- za cheese. From the mozzarella family, the semi-soft white cheese, which is similar to a provolone in shape, is made throughout Apulia and in some parts of Campania and Molise. e cheese is made from pasteurized cow's milk or from a mixture of cow and sheep's milk. e Scaomorza made in Bari is made primarily with sheep's milk. e process by which it is made involves stretching and moulding the curd that has been ripened for about 24 hours. e future cheese is then cooled in cold water and put in a brine bath for a period that varies according to the weight of the individual cheese. e proc- ess of stretching the curd and allowing it to mature in its own whey allows the acidity to develop by the process of lactose being con- verted to lactic acid. e end result is drier than Mozzarella, but is equally as smooth and shiny in texture. At the end of the cheese-making process, the cheeses are hanged together in strings to ripen for about two weeks. e process of ripening the cheese has given Scamorza its name, which in southern Italy means 'beheaded'. After two weeks of ripening, the cheese is sold as it is or smoked. e smoked variant, called Scamorzi Affumicate is made by smoking the cheese over flaming straw for around 10 to 15 minutes. A fresh version of Scamorza is also sold within a few days of production. e texture of Scamorza is elastic, stringy and has less moisture than Mozzarella. In addition, the flavor is more piquant, milky and creamy. Smoked Scamorza has a subtle, smoky flavour with a sweet, light caramel note. Scamorza is used as a substitute for Moz- zarella as it imparts more interest in the recipe. Since Scamorza has excellent melting qualities, it is best known to flavour baking dishes, for griddling or topped with pro- sciutto for extra zest. e smoky flavour of Scamorza pairs well with oak-aged Chardon- nay, Pinot Grigio or Orvieto. Scamorza is generally eaten fresh or smoked, with the latter (Scamorzi Affumi- cate), having a lovely gold outer layer, which makes an excellent table cheese that is also great when used in cooking. Scamorza can be substituted for moz- zarella in most dishes as can any other cheese but the resulting taste will be much stronger and more dominant. It is reputed to melt better in baking. Using the smoked variety (scamorza affumicata) adds a nice background flavour in replacement of moz- zarella. Scamorze allo spiedo is a very old dish in which small scamorza cheeses are threaded on spits which revolve over a wood fire. Dur- ing the cooking process, the cheese takes on an amber colour and the interior becomes creamy and buttery. Makes 20 Ingredients 50g sugar • 337ml milk • 540g flour • 1 tsp cinnamon • 54g butter • 1 egg • 100g sultanas • 1 pkt yeast • For the crosses • 75g plain flour • For the glaze • 3 tbsp apricot jam • Method 1. Bring the milk to the boil, then remove from the heat and add the but ter. 2. Leave to cool until tepid. 3. Put the flour, salt, sugar and yeast into a bowl. Make a well in the centre. Pour in the warm milk and but ter mixture, then add the egg. 4. Using a wooden spoon, mix well, then bring ever y thing together with your hands until you have a stick y dough. 5. Tip on to a lightly floured sur face and knead by holding the dough with one hand and stretching it with the heel of the other hand, then folding it back on itself. 6. Repeat for 5 mins until smooth and elastic. 7. Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with oiled cling film and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hr or until doubled in size. 8. Add the sultanas and spices and knead to make sure ever y thing is distributed. 9. Leave to rise for 1 more hour until doubled in size. 10. Divide the dough into 20 even pieces. 11. Roll each piece into a smooth ball on a lightly floured work sur face. Arrange the buns on one or t wo baking trays lined with parchment, leaving enough space for the dough to expand. Cover (but don't wrap) with oiled cling film, or a clean tea towel, then set aside to prove for 1 hr more. 12. Heat oven to 220°C. 13. To make the crosses, mix the flour with about 5 tbsp water adding the water 1 tbsp at a time. 14. Spoon into a piping bag with a small nozzle. Pipe a line along each row of buns, then repeat in the other direction to create crosses. 15. Bake for 20 mins on the middle shelf of the oven, until golden brown. 16. Gently heat the apricot jam to melt, then sieve to get rid of any chunks. While the jam is still warm, brush over the top of the warm buns and leave to cool. Recipe of the week Hot cross buns Scamorza cheese, though similar to mozzarella, has a more piquant flavour and has less moisture