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MT 10 Jan 2016

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 10 JANUARY 2016 34 Food One of Flichman's top wines, combining the unique characteristics of two terroirs in a single grape variety. Tupungato at 1,100m altitude gives freshness and structure while Barrancas, at 700m, adds colour and density. Aged for over 6 months in American and French oak. An intense red colour leads to aromas of plums combined with delicate oak, spices and chocolate. Red berry fruit continues on the palate where it is met with a hint of herbal spice. A complex wine and a perfect match with steak or rich sausages. Alternatively, at the end of a meal with a chocolate filled pudding. 2013 Gestos Malbec - Finca Flichman, Mendoza, Argentina Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt WITH the warm weather finally packing it in, the relief from the heat comes with its own drawbacks. Venturing out of the house, into an evening that seems to darken earlier each day, can be a challenge, particu- larly on a weekday. So it was with relatively high expecta- tions that my guest and I made our way to Marsaxlokk, the strong smell of the sea buf- feting us about on a blustery evening. We walked into Terrone, right across from the roiling ocean, grateful to be out of the wind. Parking was a breeze, a welcome luxury in the busy seaside town. It also made our walk back to the car thankfully short – an important consideration on a full stomach. On our way in, a small deck played host to some braver souls than us, enjoying a glass of wine outdoors, seemingly unperturbed by the dropping temperature. Smooth stone and muted teal accents wel- comed us and patterned tiles added an eye- catching detail to the bar. Tonight however, we would be partaking in the food rather than the liquid fare, though that outdoor deck seems like the perfect place to do so in slightly more accommodating weather. We headed into the dining room, deco- rated with antique tools, images of tradi- tional life on the walls and fish traps clev- erly converted into light fixtures. There is no doubt that Terrone, on the seafront in Marsaxlokk, was holding on lovingly to the local fishing culture. The dining room was a manageable size, ensuring the place neither echoed nor forced patrons to overhear each other's dinner conversations. A friendly waiter saw us to our table and handed us menus. They were newly printed – and dated – and comprised only a single page, testament to Chef Adrian Hili's com- mitment to using only fresh, in-season, lo- cal and regional produce in Maltese, Sicil- ian and southern Italian dishes. The wine list was slightly longer but was equally fo- cused on Mediterranean wines, many of- fered by the glass, a great opportunity to match wines with each course without hav- ing the problem of wasting perfectly good wine because it does not complement the next dish. The word 'terrone' is both a slang term of inhabitants of the south of Italy and has a strong linguistic connection to the earth. And this is exactly what the menu is going for. If you're looking for an intimidating list of ingredients or some overly complicated preparation, then perhaps Terrone is not for you. The focus here is on preserving the natural flavours of quality produce without distorting them through destructive prepa- ration methods or competing ingredient selections. A pretty even symmetry between fish and meat dishes, as well as some vegetar- ian options, means that there's something for everyone on the menu, although it made it extra difficult to choose. Still, even with such a carefully curated selection, it was dif- ficult to make a decision. Eventually, after some deliberation – and two slices of warm focaccia – we made our choice. A somewhat standard selection of cold cuts was followed by spinach and ricotta- stuffed pasta with Parmesan shavings, of- fering a balanced bite every time. A word of warning though – it is tempting to fill up on the focaccia, topped with herbs and auber- gine. It is certainly delicious but you should leave space for what's to come. That, for my guest, was the turbot, and wood smoked pork chops for me. The fish was tender, fall-off-the-bone moist and came with roasted potatoes and capers. The pork made the both of us do a double take when it arrived. Two rather large and intimidating chops were stacked atop a bed of spinach and chickpeas. I attacked both with gusto but was eventually defeated. In hindsight, I should have stuck to just one slice of that focaccia. Luckily, the secondary dessert stomach – that extra space, an accepted urban leg- end, unproven by science, for dessert in a full stomach – had just enough room for the final course. On the recommendation of our host, both of us chose the pistachio cake with ice cream, a decision neither of us regretted one bit. The cake was moist, topped with whole pistachios and citrus peel for a satisfying crunch and a burst of tanginess. The ice cream provided the ideal sweet counterpoint for the subtle flavours of the cake. Terrone ticks all the boxes for a perfect evening out. Low-key enough to appeal to those wanting a quiet meal, it offers plenty of distraction with the food itself. As our meal wrapped up and we steeled ourselves for our exit into the chilly night, bellies full and with plenty to talk about, we couldn't help but feel that our brave foray into the inclement weather was worth it. Terrone 1, Wilga Street, Marsaxlokk Tel: 27042656 Email: info@terrone.com.mt Web: www.terrone.com.mt Uncomplicated, natural flavours Resto of the week Braving the cold may seem less appealing now that we are on winter's doorstep. However, RACHEL AGIUS finds out just how rewarding it may be if that outing involves a trip to Marsaxlokk's Terrone WINE OF THE WEEK

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