Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/627675
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 17 JANUARY 2016 34 Food Sasseo (pronounced Sah-say-oh) is a whimsical name. It is derived from the Italian word sasso, meaning stone; this name refers to the abundance of limestone in the area, which creates a reflective quality in the vineyards. The grapes are grown on a terrain comprised of reddish earth mixed with slabs of limestone; the latter have been crushed according to a unique technique known as "spietramento Ruby red with purple hues. Prominent tobacco and leather on the nose; ripe blackberry and blueberry with hints of cocoa, baking spice, and delicate pine. Palate is juicy and medium bodied; reveals rich fruits, sweet herbs, and milk chocolate; leads to plush tannins and an elegant finish. Compliments barbecued and grilled meats, an assortment of pastas with red sauce, as well as bleu, Gouda, and goat milk-based cheeses. Sasseo Primitivo 2013 Masseria Altemura, Puglia Italy Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt AS a food writer, you get to experience the full spectrum of the food service industry. Even when you're not working, you cannot help but pick up on things the average diner might not notice. Sometimes it's not so great – did I really just watch a waitress roll her eyes at a customer? But sometimes, it's ex- cellent. Walking into Wejla by Tartarun, for example, I knew I would probably want to come back. My guest and I were shown to our seats by our smartly dressed hostess, who then offered to take my jacket. Hallelujah! I thought, someone who knows how things should be done. The evening would con- tinue in this vein – our hostess was attentive and prompt with topping up our drinks and clearing our plates. Manager Stephen talked us through the menu. Despite its sister res- taurant – Tartarun, in Marsaxlokk – having a well deserved reputation as a top notch fish restaurant and despite the somewhat nerv- ous-looking lobsters scuttling about in the aquarium, Wejla's menu takes as good care of the carnivores as it does the pescetarians. Still, the speciality is fish and seafood, as was amply demonstrated during our meal. After an aperitif – the cucumber curls in the gin were a nice touch – two amuse bouche made their way to our table. As loathe as I am to use this word in a profes- sional context, there's no better term – these things were cute. The first was a crunchy little arancina, filled with pork and rice. It was perfectly bite-size and was accompanied by smoked mayonnaise that has changed my view of the sauce entirely – a moreish, flavour-packed addition that made me sad when it finished. Then came little rectangles of toast, topped with crab puree and gar- nished with dill. Smooth and crunchy all at once, this was but the beginning. We'd soon learn that the attention paid to even the tini- est morsel would be in evidence throughout the evening. The opening round – a wonderful steak tartar and a fish ceviche with citrus foam, fennel and dill – disappeared from our plates without a trace. The tartar was perfectly pre- pared and had a pleasing texture, while the ceviche and its bubblegum pink foam made for playful flavours in a pretty package. Next came a pair of pasta dishes that quite frankly cast doubts on every pasta dish I've tried before. First came the lobster agnol- otti. An unassuming dish was brought to the table, containing a delicate, coral coloured bisque. Lurking just below the surface were the black lobster-filled parcels – a meld of subtle flavours and striking visual contrasts. Next was a little pan with gnocchi shaped like mermaid's purses. Filled with ricotta, they sat in a delectable truffle butter and mush- room sauce and topped with quinoa crack- ers. They were as delicious as they sound. It's hard to find a decent bouillabaisse on our islands so when I spotted it on the menu, during my in-depth pre-review research, I knew we'd have to order it. What arrived at the table was a towering stack of seafood, accompanied by a flask of the liquid compo- nent of this iconic French stew. The interac- tive element to this dish was a pleasant bit of flair but it was thoroughly forgotten when the eating actually began. Balanced flavours, allowed to develop nicely individually as well as with each other, and the freshness of the ingredients made this the most memorable dish of the evening. That's not to say of course that the others weren't worthy of the limelight. The Côte de veau– 500g of tender, beautifully seared meat on the bone, carved at our table – was a sight to behold as it was wheeled over and drew many appreciative noises once we tucked in. The accompanying twice-cooked potatoes were irresistibly moreish too. Once our hostess cleared our table and we thought we couldn't eat another bite, a veri- table buffet of desserts came along. Despite our (very half-hearted) assertions that we were full, we tackled them all with gusto. The almond pannacotta with red fruits was light, with the fruit offering a slightly tart coun- terpoint to the gentle pannacotta flavours. There was a bitter undercurrent to the fluffy pistachio cake, thanks to its grapefruit cre- maux. The chocolate and hazelnut brownie was just the right degree of rich after a meal that tickled every tastebud. The stellar service, ambience and conven- ience (more parking than you can shake a stick at, in SmartCity's endless facilities) are definitely working in Wejla's favour. But the real draw – the undoubted star of the show – is the food. Made with care and an evident attention to detail, it would have knocked our socks off even if it were served on plastic plates. That we ate in such luxury was just a plus. A return visit is definitely in order. Wejla SmartCity, Kalkara Tel: 79258117 Web: www.weijla.com.mt Facebook: wejla Living up to expectations… and then some Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK