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35 maltatoday, SUNDAY, 25 JUNE 2017 THE south of Italy is famous for its Scamorza cheese. From the moz- zarella family, the semi-soft white cheese, which is similar to a provo- lone in shape, is made throughout Apulia and in some parts of Cam- pania and Molise. The cheese is made from pas- teurized cow's milk or from a mix- ture of cow and sheep milk. The Scamorza made in Bari is made primarily with sheep's milk. The process by which it is made in- volves stretching and moulding the curd that has been ripened for about 24 hours. The future cheese is then cooled in cold water and put in a brine bath for a period that varies according to the weight of the individual cheese. The process of stretching the curd and allowing it to mature in its own whey allows the acidity to develop by the pro- cess of lactose being converted to lactic acid. The end result is drier than Moz- zarella, but is equally as smooth and shiny in texture. At the end of the cheese making process, the cheeses are hanged together in strings to ripen for about two weeks. The process of ripening the cheese has given Scamorza its name, which in southern Italy means 'beheaded'. After two weeks of ripening, the cheese is sold as it is or smoked. The smoked variant, called Scamorzi Affumicate, is made by smoking the cheese over flaming straw for around 10 to 15 minutes. A fresh version of Scamorza is also sold within a few days of produc- tion. The texture of Scamorza is elas- tic, stringy and has less moisture than Mozzarella. In addition, the flavour is more piquant, milky and creamy. Smoked Scamorza has a subtle, smoky flavour with a sweet, light caramel note. Scamorza is used as a substi- tute for Mozzarella as it imparts more interest in the recipe. Since Scamorza has excellent melting qualities, it is best known to fla- vour baking dishes, for griddling or topped with prosciutto for extra zest. The smoky flavour of Scamorza pairs well with oak-aged Chardonnay, Pinot Girgio or Or- vieto. Scamorza is generally eaten fresh or smoked, with the latter (Scamorzi Affumicate), having a lovely gold outer layer which makes an excellent table cheese that is also great when used in cooking. Scamorza can be substituted for mozzarella in most dishes as can any other cheese but the result- ing taste will be much stronger and more dominant. It is reputed to melt better in baking. Using the smoked variety (scamorza affumi- cata) adds a nice background fla- vour in replacement of mozzarella. Scamorze allo spiedo is a very old dish in which small scamorza cheeses are threaded on spits which revolve over a wood fire. During the cooking process, the cheese takes on an amber colour and the interior becomes creamy and buttery. Fine food of the week Food Ingredients • 8 slices white bread (sandwich bread) • Fresh basil leaves • 4 thick slices of mozzarella, drained and dried • 4 slices smokey scamorza • 4 tsp anchovy paste • 3 large eggs • ¼ cup milk • Canola oil for shallow frying • Mixed salad leaves Method 1. Lay 4 slices of bread on a small baking tray lined with baking paper. 2. Arrange 4 basil leaves on each slice of bread slightly overlapping them in the cen- tre. 3. Set 1 piece of mozzarella on each slice with a bit of an- chovy paste. 4. Top with a slice of scamorza and add another layer of bas- il. Lay the remaining slices of bread on top. 5. Place a piece of baking paper on the top and put another baking tray on top, adding weights and place in fridge for at least two hours or over- night. 6. Once rested, remove the crusts or use a 7cm round cookie cutter to cut a shape. 7. Make an eggwash by cracking the eggs into a shallow bowl and whisking in the milk. 8. Pour ½ inch of oil in a shallow heavy skillet and heat over medium heat until hot. Line a large plate with kitchen paper 9. Dip the sandwich in eggwash, remove and drain off the ex- cess. 10. Add it to pan and cook until golden brown on one side (approx. 2-3 mins) then turn with spatula, cook on the other side until golden brown (approx. 2- 3 mins). 11. Remove from the oil and place on kitchen roll to drain excess oil. Season immedi- ately with salt. 12. Serve immediately with mixed salad leaves. (Go easy on the salad dressing as there is already a lot of oil in the sandwiches.) Fry the sandwiches one (or two if the skillet is large) at a time. Over- crowding will reduce the temper- ature of the oil and more will be absorbed by the sandwich, making it too oily. Recipe of the week Mozzarella in carrozza Smokey scamorza Scamorza cheese, though similar to mozzarella, has a more piquant flavour and has less moisture