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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 22 NOVEMBER 2015 34 Food 34 Nipozzano Riserva is a lovely ruby-red. The nose opens with dark wild berries and cherry, hints of candy floss and pleasant floral notes of lilac and chocolate. The spicy component emerges with nuances of clove and green peppercorn. The palate is characterized by a distinct tactile approach in which the stamp of the terroir is underlined by a lively minerality. The tannin texture is tight but not sharp which is also an expression of the uniqueness of the soils of Nipozzano. The finish returns to the intense fruity notes already identified on the nose. Critical Acclaim James Suckling (91 points) - "A chewy, rich red with blueberry and blackberry character, a full body and a firm tannin backbone. Always an excellent, well-structured Chianti. Drink or hold." Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2011 Frescobaldi, Tuscany (Italy) Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Resto of the week SURPRISES are great. What is life without adventure and the unknown? Similarly, try- ing new things in dining can lead to fantastic discoveries and a wider choice the next time the stomach gets grumbly. Of course there is some risk of failure – a plate of soggy pasta or sub-standard service can ruin a perfectly good evening out – but whatever is worth doing is worth the risk. Then of course there are times when you can simply not be bothered. Maybe it's been a rough day or maybe you just want no fuss. You want a dining experience you know will be excellent all round, with food you know will blow you away. Life, as they say, is too short for bad food. Ali Baba is just that reliable place. It has made a name for itself for its unparalleled Lebanese cuisine that takes rich ingredi- ents and then works some kind of magic to make them into dishes you simply cannot get enough of. A complete makeover in the past few years has made guests even more com- fortable in stylish, refined surroundings. A visit to Ali Baba is usually a well-earned treat after a trying week. The place is small, true. And during our meal, my first there in some time, it was bustling with eager diners and the occa- sional billow of steam emerging from the kitchen. The intimate setting is perfect and easily facilitates the ideal way to dine at Ali Baba, favouring a selection of mezes instead of the typical starter-and-main-course we've become accustomed to. While this system encourages sharing and talking – lots of dif- ferent dishes require lots of discussion – do be warned. It may be harder to pace yourself; those seemingly small morsels do start to add up and it would be a shame to miss out on anything. Dish after dish pours out of the kitchen, each met with wide-eyed eagerness from guests hoping it was destined for their table. The brisk service ensured that no one was left looking at their empty plates for too long before they were replaced with some new delight. The special trick at Ali Baba is to trust the staff. After opting for the mezes, we were asked whether any items on the menu were off the table. We confirmed our allergy-free status and declined the brain (I'll admit to having some reservations about consuming grey matter) but welcomed everything else. The rest was in their hands. What arrived were a variety of dishes that vied with one another for the top spot. The lamb tongue was utterly sublime, its deli- cate texture enhanced by its simple treat- ment in a Lebanese wine. That staple of Middle Eastern cuisine, the chickpea dip, became irresistibly moreish with the addi- tion of ground lamb and toasted pine nuts. The lamb arayess combined the humble pita bread, toasted till crunchy, with a richly spiced lamb mince that made me wish I had the time and expertise to make them myself – the ideal snack food for the gourmand. The accompanying wine, a Kados Grillo out of sunny Sicily, had a full, crisp flavour that didn't drown out any of the food but rather subtly cleansed the palate in between courses. Although lamb is easily the most popular meat on the menu – the cutlets, with their complex marriage of spices, were the fa- vourite dish of the evening, by unanimous vote – chicken was given good representa- tion too. A real treat was the pastry stuffed with minced chicken and raisins, offering a crunchy Lebanese version of the spring roll. The boneless cockerel, marinated in harissa and a generous dose of garlic, was tender and succulent. Accompanying this dish was a bowl of couscous with stewed vegetables and some chunky, thick-cut French fries with Lebanese salt, a traditional, wholesome take on that fast food staple that left the skins on the potatoes and their 'junk food' reputation far behind. Needless to say, despite the number of dish- es we tackled (not without gusto), there was room for dessert, which was no less satisfy- ing. The Baklewa, packed with nuts and hon- ey, was utterly incredible. Having originated in Turkey, the Lebanese version of baklava is cut into small diamond shapes, two mouth- fuls of heaven. The warm pistachio and olive oil cake, served with rose water ice cream, was a curious but tasty combination of fla- vours. Rose water can be something of an acquired taste but it was not strong enough to overpower the delicate flavours of the nuts and oil – a good thing, since you'll want to savour them in their complex complemen- tarity. Perhaps my initial feelings about surprises need revising, based on my experience at Ali Baba. Because apparently, you can have the best of both worlds – a place that offers a surprise or two within its menu and a guar- anteed, incomparable dining experience you can rely on again and again. Ali Baba No 9, Ponsomby Street, Gzira Tel: 21340119; 99450211 Web: www.hanyharb.com Find them on Facebook Reliably good Lebanese food at Ali Baba