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MT 22 November 2015

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 22 NOVEMBER 2015 35 Fine food of the week Saffron The most expensive spice in the world, saffron offers subtle flavours sought out by foodies around the world. Saffron has been described by connoisseurs as having a taste reminiscent of metallic honey with grassy or hay-like notes. Used in Indian, Persian, Arabic, Turkish and Europe- an cuisines, saffron not only offers a delicate flavour but also the bright yellow-orange col- our associated with paella and bouillabaisse . But why is saffron such a pricey spice? A saffron thread is one of just three sta- mens produced by the saffron crocus flower and handpicked, taking just the red-orange part and leaving behind the yellow part of the stamen, which is tasteless. Just one ounce of the spice is approximately 14,000 saffron stamens. Luckily just a little bit of saffron goes a long way and very little is needed to flavour food and just a pinch will usually suffice for four to six people. Keep in mind that the flavour of saffron will be stronger the following day. Since heat releases saffron's flavour it is best steeped in hot water before adding to food. This will also allow the colour to dis- perse throughout the food. The most efficient use of saffron is to add three teaspoons of hot water to one teaspoon of saffron and leave to soak for a minimum of two hours and a maximum of 12 hours. The stamens will increase to one and a half times their dry size. If you are pressed for time soak the saf- fron, use five teaspoons of water for every teaspoon of saffron and leave to soak for 20 minutes. Then using the back of spoon, or in a pestle and mortar, mash the threads into a thick paste and use as required. Alternatively toast the threads in a heavy skillet, being careful not to burn them, grind the threads into a powder and use as directed by the recipe. Saffron is also available in powdered form, though it loses its flavour more quickly. The general rule is to use half the amount of pow- dered saffron as you would saffron threads. Therefore if a recipe calls for half a teaspoon of saffron threads you can substitute it with a quarter teaspoon of saffron powder. Turmeric is often used as a cheaper sub- stitute for saffron, for colour but not for fla- vour. Saffron is especially good when used in cooking seafood dishes such as bouillabaisse and paella. It is also used in risotto and other rice dishes. Try adding some to your next beef stew or tomato-based sauce. To make a wonderful marinade for fish, add saffron threads, garlic, and thyme to vinegar. Saffron is also used in bread and cake cooking. Use your imagination and be creative when using saffron in your cooking. Saffron was used as far back as during the Roman empire, when baths were perfumed with the spice. King Henry VIII's court la- dies dyed their hair with it until the monarch forbade it, when he feared a saffron shortage might reach his own table. In the 1400s, Ger- man dealers who were caught adulterating saffron were burned at the stake. Recipe of the week Tiny strands of gold Ingredients • 3 red mullet, descaled • 450g of monkfish fillet • 1 whole sea bass (100g), descaled • 12 raw large local prawns • 5 tbsp olive oil • 2 onions, finely chopped • 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 leeks, finely chopped • 1 bulb fennel, finely chopped (re- serve the tops) • 700g tomatoes, chopped • 1 tsp fennel seeds • 1 tsp tomato purée • 1 small bunch freshly flat leaf pars- ley, chopped • 3 sprigs fresh thyme • 2 bay leaves • 2 strips orange peel • 500ml fish stock • 2l bottled mineral water • 1 tsp good quality saffron • 1-2 tsp salt • 2 tbsp Pernod, or similar • 600g mussels • 300g clams Rouille • 1 large garlic clove, crushed • ½ red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, and seeded • 1 egg yolk • 1 tsp lemon juice • Small pinch saffron threads • 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil • Salt and pepper Method 1. To make the Rouille, combine the garlic, red pepper, egg yolk, lemon juice, and saffron in a food proces- sor. 2. Pulse until smooth, and then slowly drizzle in the oil and process contin- uously until the mixture thickens. 3. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside to use in this recipe. Do not keep for future use. 4. Remove the heads from the prawns, cut along the length of their backs with a sharp knife and remove the intestinal tract. Set aside. 5. Cut the monkfish into 4cm chunks. 6. Fillet the sea bass and red mullet, re- serving the head and bones. Cut each fillet of sea bass into three pieces. 7. Heat the olive oil in a large pan and add the onion, garlic, leek, and fen- nel. Cook gently for 10 mins or until the vegetables are soft, but not col- oured. 8. Stir in the tomatoes, fennel seeds, to- mato purée, all the prawn shells and fish trimmings, the chopped parsley, thyme and bay leaves. 9. Add the orange zest, fish stock and mineral water and finally the saf- fron. 10. Bring to the boil and simmer gently, uncovered, for 30-40 mins skimming the surface occasionally to remove any froth. 11. When the fish broth has reduced to about 1.7l remove from the heat and strain into a clean pan. 12. Add the Pernod, taste and season ac- cordingly. 13. Return to a simmer and add the monkfish, mussels, sea bass and red mullet. Bring back up to a simmer and add the prawns. 14. Cook for a further two minutes or until the mussels have opened and the prawns have turned pink. 15. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fish to a warm serving plate and pour the soup into a deep plate. 16. Serve with toasted bread and Rouille on the side. Each saffron crocus produces just three stamens of saffron threads Just one ounce of saffron includes 14,000 stamens, handpicked from the saffron crocus flower Food Bouillabaisse

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