Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/694236
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 19 JUNE 2016 34 Food Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Domaines Ott Rose 2015 Provence, France Domaines Ott Rose is the top wine from the Ott Sélection. These are wines that have been produced from some of the oldest vines and most noble varietals from select growers throughout Provence. The wines are produced using the traditional vinification methods of Domaines Ott, founded in 1912 by Alsatian engineer Marcel Ott. The winemaking team carefully selects the grape lots and produces wines they consider to be worthy and excellent value for wines from the Côtes de Provence. Fresh and fruity nose with hints of apricot, white fruit and pomegranate. It has a full-bodied, fresh and rounded taste with a warm and balanced structure that gives off hints of scrubland, spices and glace zests. It has a long, buxom, silky smooth and crunchy finish. Rachel Zammit Cutajar takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt I was faced with an unusual dilemma the other day. As resident Gourmet writer, I was asked whether I would please go and review Palazzo Castelletti in Rabat? Of course, I said. My guest and I showed up at the handsome palazzo, tucked away in Rabat's old centre, just a stone's throw away from everyone's favourite institution, Crystal Palace. We walked in and were met with our host, who asked if we had a reservation. Yes, I said. Yes we do. "For which restaurant?" she asked. I was stumped. And before you raise an eyebrow and (perhaps sarcastically) point out that I mentioned the name of the restau- rant right up there in the first paragraph, I should explain that Palazzo Castelletti is in fact three restaurants, housed in the same magnificent building. There is Trois, a wine bar/café that serves platters to share and an enviable selection of wines to choose from. On the rooftop – perfect for those balmy summer nights – is Redwhite, a bistro that offers a selection of salads, pasta, grills and pizza. Its laid back atmosphere is perfect for a family meal or a casual bite to eat with friends. We however were led to the San Andrea (once we worked out which one we had been booked for) and led up the stairs to what can be described as a large conservatory. Three glass walls afforded us a lovely view over the old townhouses of Rabat's village core at sunset, a watercolour painting of sun-kissed stone, gentle waving foliage and the impos- ing outline of St Paul's church. Protected from the breezy evening in our lofty sanctuary, we got down to the business of eating. San Andrea's menu offers a selec- tion of classics with a distinct twist – a some- what standard lobster thermidor is paired with a very un-standard tabasco and fennel foam. Our meal would be characterised by these unusual combinations and was all the better for it. I tried the chargrilled beef Tataki salad. Tataki refers to the method of flash grilling meat or fish very briefly and then slicing very thinly. The dish proved a sublime mix of the beef's complex flavors counterbalanced by the slight bitterness of the dressing on the Japanese cabbage. Heaven. My guest tried the lobster ravioli, tender little parcels in a rich orange sauce that looked as good as it tasted. My main course wasn't on the usual menu but from the specials. I picked the veal cheeks, mostly because I had never tried them before. They were accompanied by a celery puree and roast veg. The meat was so tender, a knife was mostly superfluous. Delicate in flavour, I would definitely recom- mend these if they are offered when you visit. My guest had the boneless roast quail, which was accompanied by asparagus, on- ions, peas, and some wonderfully cute tiny poached quail eggs. What is it about min- iature things being about 100 times more adorable than their full size counterparts? Moving on. The quail was succulent and played well with all the other parts of the dish. Dessert was very visually appealing. I had a dark chocolate mousse with matcha tea ice cream. I particularly enjoyed how the heavier chocolate was balanced out with the subtle flavour of the green ice cream. My guest enjoyed a lemon tart with a black sesame seed gel (remember what I said before about those unusual twists?), a passion fruit reduc- tion and a scattering of meringues. Needless to say both our plates were returned super clean. Despite our (read: my) initial confusion, San Andrea at Palazzo Castelletti turned out to be a memorable evening for the right rea- sons. The good food and unbeatable location were complemented by stellar service from knowledgeable staff. I can safely say that at least one in three of Palazzo Castelletti's of- ferings are up to scratch. It might be time to sample the other two. For science. PALAZZO CASTELLETTI ST PAUL'S STREET, RABAT TEL: 21452562 WEB: WWW.PALAZZOCASTELLETTI.COM FACEBOOK: PALLAZZO-CASTELLETTI Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK Old palazzos and unusual flavour combinations Anything retro is highly fashionable these days. Think new releases of classic cars like the VW Beetle and the Fiat 500. What these cars offer over their original brothers is modern day convenience. This is what Palazzo Castelletti has done with the dining experience. They pair the beautiful palazzo with rich history with unusual flavour combinations that are associated with modern cuisine. RACHEL AGIUS reports PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD